> Subject: Re: getting LX - worth it? (repairs,...)
>
>
> I agree that an incident meter or a spot meter and careful calculation are
> superior to an in-camera meter, but the LX in -camera meter is
> very, very good
> and is far superior to guessing. Even when that guess is made by
> an experienced
> an knowledgable photograher.

Give me a clear sunny day and I bet I can "guess" the exposure
better than an LX can when the subject matter is either very light or very
dark.
In camera meters are very stupid to the point that a simple "guess"
can easily be more accurate than even an LX with certain subjects.

> Of course you have to consider
> what's in frame and
> what your meter is reading.

Very true to the point that in order to compensate for the
in cameras meter's "dumbness" you end up guessing anyway.
Thats why I use sunny f16 or an incident meter and manual
exposure. It yeilds more consistant results than an in camera
meter does.

> BTW, I've been using an incident
> meter (an  old but
> very accurate Vivitar 285) with my 6x7 and am quite pleased with
> the results.
> Paul

You should be, thats the way to go!!!!

>
> "J. C. O'Connell" wrote:
>
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Paul Stenquist
> > > Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 10:43 PM
> > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > Subject: Re: getting LX - worth it? (repairs,...)
> > >
> > >
> > > Shel Belinkoff wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> > > > Spot metering on the LX would be nice, but since I don't use a meter
> > > > much these days, I don't really care too much one way or another.
> > >
> > > I'm surprised that some people (not just you Shel) shun meters,
> > > yet agonize
> > > over ten seconds more or less development time, or whether to use this
> > > developer or that. An exposure that's off by 1/3 of a stop
> will do just as
> > > much to upset the balance of a negative as will 30 seconds too much
> > > development. The grain structure of a given developer and film will be
> > > affected significantly by half a stop too much or too little
> exposure. I
> > > don't understand why someone would not use a meter. Even in full sun,
> > > "sunny sixteen" exposures can be affected by airborne
> pollution or other
> > > atmospheric conditions. No one can consistently guess
> exposures to within
> > > more than half a stop. No one. Period. A meter is an
> invaluable tool much
> > > of the time. And with an LX, one can employ near faultless
> OTF metering
> > > with stepless shutter speeds in auto exposure aperture
> priority mode, so
> > > speed and spontaneity are not an issue. I don't understand the
> > > advantage of
> > > working without it.
> > > Paul
> >
> > The simple fact is that ALL in camera meters are reflectance type meters
> > and can give errors ( sometimes gross ) depending on what they
> are pointed
> > at. I use an INCIDENT hand held meter for critical exposures
> and transfer
> > the exposure settings manually to the camera for this very reason.
> >
> > Another big problem with in camera meters is they give
> different exposure
> > values as the camera is moved around EVEN THOUGH THE LIGHT
> HASNT CHANGED!!
> > I once shot an entire roll of slide film very fast ( motor drive) with
> > the camera on AE and the exposures varied all over the place.
> VERY annoying.
> > Never again. AE is OK for neg film due to latitude and corrections in
> > printing
> > but it sucks for slide film especially when the lighting
> conditions are not
> > changing.
> >
> > Since I have been using hand held incident meter my exposures
> have been near
> > perfect.
> > It doesnt work if lighting conditions are changing rapidly, but
> then again I
> > dont
> > like to shoot under those conditions to begin with since good lighting
> > conditions
> > is probably the single most important factor in getting a good
> photograph.
> > JCO
> > -
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