> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Shel Belinkoff
> Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2002 3:05 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: Metering
>
>
> No you're not.  You don't meter the sun, and if the subject is backlit,
> it doesn't matter.  You're taking a reading of the subject which is
> unaffected by the back lighting.

You stated: "measure the brightest part of the scene and open up three
stops."
not me. This method is flawed. As far as backlighting goes this method
made no mention of metering on the subject. You stated just meter the
brightest
part of the scene and open up 3 stops. Nothing to do with the subject at
all.

>
> If, as a photographer, you can't recognize a middle grey tone, you
> should be using a P&S and sign up for a photography class.
>
The problem is there are MANY shades of grey and picking the correct
one by eye is not always easy especially if the scenes in color.
Indidence metering is much simpler, just point the incidence dome
in the direction of the light falling on the subject. When backlighting
occurs you measure the light falling on the side of the subject being
photgraphed.
JCO
============================================================================
=
> "J. C. O'Connell" wrote:
> >
> > > One option, and perhaps the simplest,
> > > is to measure the brightest part of the scene and open up three stops.
> > > Bada-Bing! a great exposure, simply and without fuss.
> >
> > Thats not always going to work. What happens if the sun is in
> > the pic, or if the subject is back lit? Your going to end up
> > with underexposures.
> >
> > >  Or, for most
> > > scenes, just point the meter at a middle grey tone (rock, grass, your
> > > jeans - whatever), and there you have it, another great exposure.
> >
> > This is the real problem with spot meters , its not easy to
> > decide by eye what is "middle gray, especially in a color ful scene.
> >
>
> --
> Shel Belinkoff
> mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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