Like I said ..."If, as a photographer, you can't recognize a middle grey tone, you should be using a P&S and sign up for a photography class."
And you're right - I should have said subject and not scene. "J. C. O'Connell" wrote: > You stated: "measure the brightest part of the scene and open up three > stops." > not me. This method is flawed. As far as backlighting goes this method > made no mention of metering on the subject. You stated just meter the > brightest > part of the scene and open up 3 stops. Nothing to do with the subject at > all. > The problem is there are MANY shades of grey and picking the correct > one by eye is not always easy especially if the scenes in color. > Indidence metering is much simpler, just point the incidence dome > in the direction of the light falling on the subject. When backlighting > occurs you measure the light falling on the side of the subject being > photgraphed. > JCO > ============================================================================ > = > > "J. C. O'Connell" wrote: > > > > > > > One option, and perhaps the simplest, > > > > is to measure the brightest part of the scene and open up three stops. > > > > Bada-Bing! a great exposure, simply and without fuss. > > > > > > Thats not always going to work. What happens if the sun is in > > > the pic, or if the subject is back lit? Your going to end up > > > with underexposures. > > > > > > > Or, for most > > > > scenes, just point the meter at a middle grey tone (rock, grass, your > > > > jeans - whatever), and there you have it, another great exposure. > > > > > > This is the real problem with spot meters , its not easy to > > > decide by eye what is "middle gray, especially in a color ful scene. > > > > > -- Shel Belinkoff mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/ - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
