> >>>>
> >>>> http://www.caguila.com/caguila/trackstest
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>> I would shoot at the sensor's 'natural' iso - 100, 160 or whatever,
> >>> which will give you the most dynamic range. Meter for the highlights
> >>> and use the histogram to make sure you're exposing as far to the
> >>> right
> > as
> >> you can.
> >>
> >> If she meters for the highlights in this situation, she'll have nice
> >> pics
> > of the
> >> background, but the main subjects will be lost. If she pumps up the
> > shadows
> >> to restore them, they'll be noisy as hell.
> >> Paul
> >
> > it's a trade-off between that and blown highlights.
> 
> The highlights are insignificant background elements.With film, exposing
for
> highlights is okay. With digital, it's a no-no, because boosting shadows
turns
> them to shit. In any case, boosting the shadows during exposure is the
best
> solution here.
> Paul

when the highlights are blown they become very significant background
elements. 

Exposing to the right of the histogram is all about exposing for the
highlights, and a very important element of digital photography. Far from
being a no-no. Furthermore, I did not recommend boosting the shadows, I
recommended dragging them to the left of the histogram to make most use of
the dynamic range if the shadows weren't already hard up to the left.

I did suggest later in my original reply that Christine should be looking to
exclude highlights from the frame when the contrast is too great. Personally
I would try to avoid shooting under such extreme ranges of contrast unless I
was deliberately trying to make something of them.

Anyway, she has a range of options and would be well advised to try them all
and see what works best for her


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