I have callibrated it now, with the AF-assist lamp on. It was far off +10.
It's much better now, but I don't know how it performs in the studio
light. But for the time being I prefer thinking of it as solved.
(Thanks Paul for pushing me).
The results where consistent. But I did run into one oddity. It
struggled locking around 28mm when using +10. So I'm still not 100%
comfortable.
-----------------
Yes, the studio work is mainly portrait. At least for the moment. Good
bokeh is good, no doubt about that. But it is not on top of my
priority list, at the moment.
The FA* is the preferred lens for head shots. But I seem to prefer
using 28-35ish with the 16-50 when shooting full figure. I like
working close. So something narrower is out for the moment. Much
easier to adjust the light, clothes etc when I'm close. That's why I'm
thinking 28-75. All I need indoor, in one lens. Primes is better, but
I can't afford a good range of them at the moment.

The 35/2,8 is tempting, only wish it was a wee bit faster. The 31 is
way to expensive. It's easy to soften down the pictures afterwords if
they are to sharp. Much worse going the other way.
Another reason for wanting the 35 is that I can see myself using it as
a walk about. Macro is handy when walking about.

BTW. I wish I wasn't left eye dominant. I'd like to have one eye
visible to make better contact with the model. Now I'm hiding myself
behind the camera.

Another BTW. I'm starting to make a field project too. Environmental
portraits of people at work doing their craft. Going to visit a female
jeweller tomorrow. That's the first shoot in the series. That's a
situation where bokeh is important. Wish me luck. Also gone visit the
elders day centre again tomorrow.

--
MaritimTim

http://maritimtim.blogspot.com/



2011/3/20 Bruce Walker <bruce.wal...@gmail.com>:
> A counter-point to Larry's suggestion: camera bodies come and go, but good
> glass is forever. That truism varies in validity of course (thinking of the
> random SDM death-spiral here), but it's mostly true. I bought my first two
> decent lenses for my K100D Super rather than upgrading to a K10D or other. A
> year or two later I added a K20D and those lenses are workhorses on it.  I
> expect they'll still be going strong when the K100D is landfill and the K20D
> is gathering dust.
>
> So, I'd recommend solving the lens problem. And for your work (lots of
> portrait stuff, no?) OOF rendering is more important than you might think. I
> think it's a hallmark of the best portrait glass in fact.  BTW, the 35mm 2.8
>  Ltd has pretty good bokeh, but personally I find it's *too* sharp for
> portraiture. A little softness of the right kind is preferable.
>
> I dunno about your DA* 16-50 issues though. You might want to give the
> calibration a go, under your expected lighting conditions.  I've had no
> trouble with focus in florescent and tungsten light with that lens, and I've
> done some studio stuff with it.  It has really nice bokeh and renders pretty
> nice portraits. (Though I'd rather be shooting portraits with the DA* 55 1.4
> and the 50-135 2.8, myself.)
>
> -bmw
>
>
> On 11-03-20 9:24 AM, Tim Øsleby wrote:
>>
>> My significant other would kill me for getting a K-5 now. But I could
>> smuggle in a lens.
>>
>> --
>> MaritimTim
>>
>> http://maritimtim.blogspot.com/
>>
>>
>>
>> 2011/3/20 Larry Colen<l...@red4est.com>:
>>>
>>> On Mar 20, 2011, at 6:06 AM, Tim Øsleby wrote:
>>>
>>>> Already got a magnifier. And I'm not a fan of split prism. Besides
>>>> that I probably will retire the K-20, so spending more money at it
>>>> seems a bit like waste.
>>>
>>> Tim, if you are eventually going to upgrade to a K-5, and you can afford
>>> to do it now, then the money you save by waiting for the price to drop will
>>> not be worth the frustration you'll pay by using the K-20 rather than the
>>> K-5 in the meantime.  I don't know how much of the K-5 was produced in the
>>> area affected by the recent events, but the Japanese economy has taken
>>> enough of a hit, that I don't see supply of DSLRs outstripping demand in the
>>> near future, and the price is very likely to take a temporary upturn.
>>>
>>> Alternatively, you could get most of the performance by buying a K-r, but
>>> then you'll likely find yourself needing to carry both bodies, one for when
>>> you need performance, the other for when you need features.
>>>
>>> --
>>> Larry Colen l...@red4est.com sent from i4est
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
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>
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