On Thu, Oct 03, 2013 at 03:14:24PM -0400, Igor Roshchin wrote:
> 
> 
> Thu Oct 3 14:43:07 EDT 2013
> Godfrey DiGiorgi wrote:
> 
> > On Oct 3, 2013, at 10:54 AM, Larry Colen <lrc at red4est.com> wrote:
> > 
> > >> Wrong. Format ALWAYS influences apparent DOF.
> > > 
> > > You are saying that if I take a photo with a D800, and in lightroom
> > > crop it down so that I'm only using the area of a u4/3 sensor, then
> > > the apparant DoF will change?
> > 
> > No. By doing that you are changing the D800 format, making it the same
> > as mFT format, and the resulting DoF will be the same if you use the
> > same focal length lens on both cameras. You have changed the
> > magnification by cropping the D800 format. 
> > 
> > G
> 
> 
> Larry, the answer is "No", as Godfrey said, if you do not zoom in on
> your screen (or in the print) after you did the crop.
> If you zoom in, then yes, the apparent DOF will change, you'll see objects
> less sharp.

That was pretty much my point.  Depth of field is dependent on 
magnification
aperture
image resolution

> 
> You are not surprised that somewhat out-of-focus photograph looks sharp
> enough when you are looking at a small thumbnail (or preview on the back
> of the camera), but when you blow it up on your 1900x1200 screen, you
> clearly see it being OOF.
> 
> Changing the crop factor is equivalent to blowing it up (to keep the
> same overal size of the image [not of a particular object] on the 
> screen (print)).

Exactly.  If you blow up the image from a small sensor more, then 
DoF reduces.  However, if you use a shorter lens to get the same AoV
on a smaller sensor, then you get more DoF.

The formula on the website is referring to the absolute DoF at the 
sensor, or film, level.  When sensors outresolve lenses, then an increase
in the sensor resolution will not have any effect on the absolute DoF.

What most people don't think about is the difference between sensor
DoF, and final image DoF.  The final image DoF is dependent upon the 
effective resolution, which could be limited by the image resolution,
the display(print resolution), or the human eye resolution depending 
upon how large the diplayed image is, how far away the viewer is, and
how sharp the viewer's eyes are. 

The takeaway is that the DoF guides on lenses, are based on the assumption
of the circle of confusion of a print of a certain size, viewed from a 
certain distance, and therefore, if you want to be sure of your zone
focusing, or hyperfocal focusing, you should be conservative in your use
of them.

For example, I showed how in Cotty's case, the theoretical far focusing
distance can vary significantly, when the theoretical hyperfocal distance is 
2.06 feet, if you set your focus point to 2.00 feet or 1.9 feet, the max
distance goes from infitity, to 72feet to IIRC 12 feet. 

In short, if you are using zone focusing, or hyperfocal points, you should
probably give yourself half a stop, or a stop of margin.  On the street,
it rarely matters if the minimal focusing distance is 1 foot or 3 feet,
but it does matter whether max focusing distance is 12', 72' or infinity.

That is the opposite of what bit me with the picture of the storm trooper
girl.  I had set my lens for hyperfocal distance, and was just thinking,
8mm, stopped down, near infinite field of view, and then I had opened 
things up, and photographed something that was no longer in the zone of
focus.  Since I looked at it on the low res monitor on the camera, I 
didn't notice. 

I will still contend that to a first approximation that the same 
(length) lens, at the same aperture, shooting the same subject, either
at the sensor level, or with the image cropped to the same AoV, or
enlarged to the same final magnification (i.e. 12"x18" for a u4/3,
16" x24" for an APS or 24"x36" for FF) will have the same depth of
field.

In short, once again Godfrey and I are probably in violent agreement,
but we're just feeling different parts of the elephant.

> 
> HTH,
> 
> Igor
> 
> 
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-- 
Larry Colen                  [email protected]         http://red4est.com/lrc


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