Walt,

Here are some thoughts:

I would recommend going to Frenchman Street, - while this has many
tourists (which part of NOLA doesn't?), it has several interesting 
musical bars, and you can find some interesting music most of the
days/nights. My personal preference would be "The Spotted Cat":
http://www.spottedcatmusicclub.com/ - they have nice blues and jazz.

I would look for some small-house architecture that is of typical 
Louisiana style.

Also, not far from Bourbon street, there is Royal Street that usually
has musicians playing daytime (at least on the weekend).
It's been a while, but close to the corner Royal and St. Louis there
used to live a couple of jazz bands (Loose Marbles and
G-Strings [G-String FAmily Orchestra/Quarter, - depending on the number
of people]). And you could find a piano in the entryway of one of the
buildings on Royal that belonged to those bands.
On a good day, that piano would come out onto the street.
And you would find people dancing swing on the street, e.g. like this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RZISKM9KaWA

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_HU1wgSQUME

I would also recommend going to Preservation Hall for an evening
performance you can make it.


HTH,

Igor



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