Hi, Chris,

Somehow, I missed your original post one this one (don't know how!).

As you may have read here, I go down to NS to visit Mom and Sister (and a boatload
of other relatives) twice a year, minimum.  Ann's right, you have to do the Cabot
Trail - one of the great scenic highways in the world, so I've been told.  I've
actually never done it, because whenever I'm there, I spend time in Halifax or the
South Shore.

I'm glad you're going to Lunenberg.  That's on the South Shore, about 10 miles from
where my Mom lives in Mahone Bay.  From Halifax down to Yarmouth is the area I'm
most familiar with.  Assuming you'll be going between Halifax and Yarmouth, there's
a nice highway (not divided, but limited access much of the way), the 103.  It's the
fastest route, but you can't see a damn thing except trees and scrub.  For at least
part of the way, you'll want to get off the highway, and get on the Lighthouse
Route.  It takes at least twice as long, but every 5 to 10 miles there's a lovely
fishing village, and the views of the ocean are spectacular.  Quite a few
lighthouses, too.

What I would suggest, if you're going from Halifax down to Yarmouth, is to try to
get to Peggy's Cove (less than 1/2 hour from Halifax).  It's very touristy, but
stark and lovely none the less.  From there, take the Lighthouse Route at least as
far as Lunenberg.  The drive will take you a couple of hours (depending on how often
you stop), but it's worth it.  It will also take you into Mahone Bay <g>.  Once you
get to Lunenberg, check out the Fishery Museum of the Atlantic.  Not that big, but
quite nice and informative.

Every town seems to have a memorial, listing the names of fishermen and boats lost
over the years.  Look for those - it's amazing how many have been lost to the sea
over the years.  Look for the years around 1926 and 27.  The infamous "Gales of '27"
were tragic.  Some towns literally lost 50% of their adult males those years.

Past Lunenberg, on the way down to Yarmouth, you may want to check out Shelbourne.
They've redone the old port area beautifully.  The streetlamps look like gas lamps,
and all the electric cables have been buried, so it really does look like something
from another era.

If you want to go whale watching, Digby is best, because they go into the Bay of
Fundy.  The high tides and warm water breed plankton, and attract loads of whales.

Try to get to Grand Pre and St. Anne's, not too far (an hour?) from Yarmouth.

Try to spend at least a day or two in Halifax.  Lovely town.  Good restaurants and
night life.  The Museum of the Atlantic is wonderful, with a section on the Titanic
(hundreds of the bodies were brought to Halifax and are buried there).  And go to
Pier 21 (Canada's Ellis Island);  there's a terrific museum there, with a film on
Canada's immigration that will leave you misty eyed.

And, when you get to Nova Scotia, see if you can find out where the Bluenose is.
When it's not travelling, it's either in Halifax or Lunenberg (where it was built).
It's a beautiful tall ship, and has an amazing history (never lost a race, and it's
on our dime!).

Sorry to go on.  If you want more, or have questions, contact me off list.

regards,
frank

Ann Sanfedele wrote:

> A must is a drive on the Cabot trail on Cape Breton Island, and staying there is
> great, too.
> The most impressive part of Nova Scotia to my thinking, by far, for spectacular
> and varied scenery,
> beautiful weather in July, yummy sea food. etc.  And pick some wild strawberries
> and Labrador tea
> while you are there.   Chilly swimming on the east side, wonderful on the west
> side, because of the gulf stream.
>
> I'm guesss you will get lots of recommendations from those who have been there
> more recently than
> I have as to accomdations and such - I was last there 20 years ago, alas.
>
> Have a great trip!
>
> annsan
>

--
"The optimist thinks this is the best of all possible worlds. The pessimist fears it
is true." -J. Robert
Oppenheimer
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