Andy,
Looks like you're narrowing the window of possibility for your machine's 
manufacture - and the clues were right there all along!? I don't have a sense 
of how long it took for new patent dates to appear on Edison dataplates, as 
this would imply that newly-patented features appeared on those particular 
machines.? I suspect that the time varied, depending on whether the model in 
question was a faster-selling one (such as the "A-250") or slow-selling one 
(such as the "A-150") with larger inventories of unsold machines.? In any 
event, based on the evidence you've discovered today, I'd amend my earlier 
assessment to "late 1912/early 1913" for your example.? Here's a puzzler: you 
state that Form 632 (pasted to your "A-250") is dated 11/20/12.? I have Form 
632 pasted to an "A-80" and it has NO DATE ON IT.? What do you suppose that 
means?? Those fellows at West Orange didn't make this easy for us, did they?

George Paul




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From [email protected]  Fri Jun 22 14:39:59 2007
From: [email protected] (gregory caringi)
Date: Fri Jun 22 14:41:58 2007
Subject: [Phono-L] Victor P bracket
Message-ID: <[email protected]>

A couple of years ago, I went through this same questioning process for my 
Victor R and got the same responses.  Maybe my R was too far gone, but none 
of the suggestions really worked.  I turned to Steve Farmer for help.  Steve 
is a great guy and a true craftsman when it comes to restorations.  Many of 
the finest Victor & Edison machines with oxidized copper or bronze finishes 
were "Farmerized."  Check out:

http://mysite.verizon.net/vze8loo1/index.html

If a simple cleaning is not going to work, then consider contacting Steve 
Farmer.  He is the best.  I'm not sure if this is his current e-mail 
address.

[email protected]

Best of luck with the project.

Greg Caringi


>From: "Ron L" <[email protected]>
>Reply-To: Antique Phonograph List <[email protected]>
>To: "'Antique Phonograph List'" <[email protected]>
>Subject: RE: [Phono-L] Victor P bracket
>Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2007 15:09:06 -0400
>
>My cleaner of choice for shellac is mechanic's waterless hand cleaner,
>without pumice.  It does not dull or soften the shellac but it does remove
>oils, greases and old wax.
>
>Ron L
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On
>Behalf Of Rich
>Sent: Friday, June 22, 2007 2:54 PM
>To: Antique Phonograph List
>Subject: RE: [Phono-L] Victor P bracket
>
>The best bet is Murphy's Oil Soap.  Mix with a little water and whip up a
>lather.  It might dull the
>shellac and if it does paste wax will fix it.  It will take off the 
>oxidized
>oil, coal dust, wood ash, and
>general dirt.  It requires patience.
>
>ANY product that is listed as either a polish or body scrub or cleaner is 
>an
>ABRASIVE and will cut
>through the shellac like a knife.  The chemical carriers in these products
>may also strip the shellac.
>The copper plate is very thin and that is what makes it fragile.
>
>Some of these oxidized fishes are coated with real violin varnish which is
>much tougher than plain
>shellac.  The color of the final product was controlled by what was used to
>over coat it.
>
>
>On Fri, 22 Jun 2007 14:10:37 -0400, Steven Medved wrote:
>
> >Hi Loran,Would a gently cleaner such as Maguires body scrub clean the 
>crud
>off of the shellac?  A lot
>of houses were heated with coal and or wood and this leaves things very
>dirty.  Patina is good, dirt is
>irritating, but sometimes it is best to leave well enough alone.The 
>oxidized
>finish is very delicate,
>when working with Edison oxidized reproducers I only remove dust with a 
>soft
>tissue.  I would think
>that the shellac could be removed and a new finish installed, but when
>dealing such an expensive
>item you would want an expert to do it.Steve> Other than gently wiping with
>a soft (microfiber) cloth to
>knock the  > dust off, I'd leave well enough alone. I'm a believer that
>patina  > shows the piece has
>lived a nice, long life.> > Loran> > On Jun 21, 2007, at 9:49 AM, Dan Kj
>wrote:> > > I knew someone
>who had the same finish on all the door hardware in  > > his house> > ....
>he removed every piece &
>got them "all clean again" with some  > > kind of> > industrial polishing
>compound.  I couldn't tell if he
>was  > > disappointed when I> > told him the pieces were  SUPPOSED to have
>spots of different- > >
>colored metal.> > ack.> >> >> >> > ----- Original Message -----> > From:
>"David Dazer"
><[email protected]>> > To: "Antique Phonograph List"
><[email protected]>> > Sent: Thursday,
>June 21, 2007 9:10 AM> > Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Victor P bracket> >> >> > I
>had good luck cleaning
>mine with 0000 steel wool and some  > > waterless hand> > cleaner that
>mechanics use.  Go easy
>with it or you might end up  > > stripping the> > whole thing off.  When 
>you
>see some of the copper
>coming back, quit.> >   Dave> >> > [email protected] wrote:> >> > I have 
>an
>oxidized Victor P front
>mount support brack that is very  > > dark. How> > could I bring the 
>support
>bracket back to life so it
>will show the  > > oxidized> > finish? Do I remove the old laquer/shellac
>finish and then  > >
>relacquer? If so what> > type of finish remover would you recommend?
>Thanks!> >> >
>_______________________________________________> > Phono-L mailing list> >
>http://phono-
>l.oldcrank.org> >> > _______________________________________________>
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>
>
>
>
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