Thanks, Mike for this link.
It does look like this product would be at home in the cosmetic
restoration tool kit.
Best,
Andy
On Nov 11, 2010, at 9:44 AM, Mike Stitt wrote:
Does life with antiques exist without rub n buff?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g-7jEPKQmgI
On Thu, Nov 11, 2010 at 8:35 AM, Andrew Baron <[email protected]>
wrote:
I've been following this thread with interest. Nice description
here.
Brass hardware that you mentioned (2-56 thread might be appropriate
for
this), and solder are all relatively soft materials and would give
that nice
balance between getting as close as you can to a factory look, and
yet be
sturdy enough to know it will safely support the weight.
What's the "rub n buff" that you mentioned?
Andy Baron
On Nov 10, 2010, at 11:59 PM, Mike Stitt wrote:
Is it really so bad the rivets must come out? Even if the metal is
split
I'll bet you could close it up. This sounds like one of those jobs
you
wish
you left alone. Rivet drilling can go wrong in a heartbeat. If you
can
drill
the outside head with a matching bit ( a little smaller that the
rivet
head)
but do not drill thru'. Be very careful.
Just thin the rivet. Next with a smaller bit drill thru' the
center but
not
through the rivet. Take a punch and gently tap it out. The rivet
head
should
break apart at the shank when you tap it. If not thin the head out
more
so.
Small brass rivets will be your best bet. I'd use nuts and bolts
over pop
rivets.You might give thought if you use brass rivets to drill the
shank
with a small bit. That way when you set them the rivet should give
with
less
force.
If you use nuts and bolts use brass. File the nuts down very thin
and even
file them round. Cut the screws just long enough so when you bolt it
together the screw should not extend past the thin nut. Using
brass you
can
fill the slotted head in with solder. Either use rub n buff or
just black
model paint. It is un-doable if need be and will look better than
you
think.
Mike Stitt
Good luck.
Mike Stitt
On Wed, Nov 10, 2010 at 10:10 PM, Ron L'Herault <[email protected]>
wrote:
It was probably a riveting tool with a long reach. You could pop
rivet
them
but that would not look quite right from the inside. Anyone else
know
more
about riveting?
Ron L
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]
]
On
Behalf Of Vinyl Visions
Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 2010 10:58 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder"
I've been afraid to remove the rivets, since I don't know what
method
they
used originally to put the rivets in without distorting the
horn... any
ideas?
From: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2010 10:00:17 -0500
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder"
Have you tried drilling out the rivets and taking the part to a
musical
Instrument repair shop? They may be able to straighten it out.
Then you
can rivet it back on.
Ron L
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]
]
On
Behalf Of Vinyl Visions
Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 2010 8:30 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder"
I don't know what you call it exactly, but does anyone sell
replacements
for the brass ball holder that is riveted to a cygnet horn? If
so, how
do
you go about replacing it? Mine was torn up by someone trying to
replace
the
ball.
Curt
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