SuperBlue also works to age brass...
> From: [email protected]
> To: [email protected]
> Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2010 21:15:35 -0500
> Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Rub n' Buff Metallic Finishes
>
>
> Greg,
> There is a product that gunsmiths use to blacken aluminum parts. I have never
> used that particular thing, but I am a big fan of SuperBlue cold gun bluing.
> I use it on parts that are rusty and need restoration. First take the rusty
> parts - brake parts, screws, etc. and clean them with a steel brush wheel (I
> have a grinder with one side as a grinding wheel, the other as a steel brush
> wheel) then buff them with a buffer. You can make the steel parts almost
> appear to have been re-nickled by doing this. However, if you don't want the
> parts to stand out, dip a soft cloth in the SuperBlue, rub it on - leave it
> for a minute or two and then spray with WD40 or other gun preservation
> sprays. It is important to spray the parts after bluing to stop the oxidation
> from continuing. You then have a part that appears to be in excellent
> condition, but aged.
>
> > From: [email protected]
> > To: [email protected]
> > Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2010 20:49:34 -0500
> > Subject: [Phono-L] Rub n' Buff Metallic Finishes
> >
> >
> > Has anyone ever used the black (ebony) Rub n' Buff on Columbia reproduction
> > aluminum parts? I have used black stove polish after soaking the parts with
> > Drano (sodium hydroxide). The Rub n' Buff sounds a lot less labor intensive.
> >
> >
> > > From: [email protected]
> > > To: [email protected]
> > > Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2010 18:50:09 -0500
> > > Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder"
> > >
> > >
> > > Hi Andy and all,
> > > >From what you can see on the video, Rub n Buff or similar rub on
> > > >metallic waxes are great for restorations. I have used it to touch up or
> > > >redo the stripes on Edison horns. It subtlely restores the original
> > > >look. A friend and I recently used it on the gold tonearm of his
> > > >Victrola 18, which had some obvious wear on the elbow near the
> > > >reproducer. After we finished, you couldn't tell it was done. Note: Rub
> > > >n Buff or other metallic waxes look good, but are not permanent without
> > > >using a fixative. I use Krylon Matte finish art fixative to topcoat it
> > > >after I'm through. It is transparent and does not show up after it is
> > > >applied, but makes the metallic finish permanent. You should experiment
> > > >first, before using it on an important piece. Another use for the
> > > >fixative is this: if you have a black horn, which is scratched, etc. it
> > > >detracts from the look and I hate to repaint, because you cannot
> > > >reproduce the japanned finish. I touch up the scratches with a Sharpie
> > > >marker, then blend
t
> he
> > t
> > > ouchups in with WD40 - I know, everyone hates WD40, but WD40 sprayed on
> > > the black paint restores the original look and blends in the touchups
> > > from the Sharpie. I then wipe off the WD40 with a soft cloth and spray
> > > the horn with fixative. If you have a horn that is in need of repainting,
> > > you might try this procedure, as it has worked well for me. I have
> > > restored a Victor R horn, a Cygnet horn that was really scratched bad and
> > > an Edison black flowered horn that now looks pristine. Just an idea...
> > > take it for what it's worth.
> > > Curt
> > >
> > >
> > > > From: [email protected]
> > > > To: [email protected]
> > > > Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2010 09:35:15 -0700
> > > > Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder"
> > > >
> > > > I've been following this thread with interest. Nice description
> > > > here. Brass hardware that you mentioned (2-56 thread might be
> > > > appropriate for this), and solder are all relatively soft materials
> > > > and would give that nice balance between getting as close as you can
> > > > to a factory look, and yet be sturdy enough to know it will safely
> > > > support the weight.
> > > >
> > > > What's the "rub n buff" that you mentioned?
> > > >
> > > > Andy Baron
> > > >
> > > > On Nov 10, 2010, at 11:59 PM, Mike Stitt wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Is it really so bad the rivets must come out? Even if the metal is
> > > > > split
> > > > > I'll bet you could close it up. This sounds like one of those jobs
> > > > > you wish
> > > > > you left alone. Rivet drilling can go wrong in a heartbeat. If you
> > > > > can drill
> > > > > the outside head with a matching bit ( a little smaller that the
> > > > > rivet head)
> > > > > but do not drill thru'. Be very careful.
> > > > >
> > > > > Just thin the rivet. Next with a smaller bit drill thru' the center
> > > > > but not
> > > > > through the rivet. Take a punch and gently tap it out. The rivet
> > > > > head should
> > > > > break apart at the shank when you tap it. If not thin the head out
> > > > > more so.
> > > > > Small brass rivets will be your best bet. I'd use nuts and bolts
> > > > > over pop
> > > > > rivets.You might give thought if you use brass rivets to drill the
> > > > > shank
> > > > > with a small bit. That way when you set them the rivet should give
> > > > > with less
> > > > > force.
> > > > >
> > > > > If you use nuts and bolts use brass. File the nuts down very thin
> > > > > and even
> > > > > file them round. Cut the screws just long enough so when you bolt it
> > > > > together the screw should not extend past the thin nut. Using brass
> > > > > you can
> > > > > fill the slotted head in with solder. Either use rub n buff or just
> > > > > black
> > > > > model paint. It is un-doable if need be and will look better than
> > > > > you think.
> > > > > Mike Stitt
> > > > >
> > > > > Good luck.
> > > > > Mike Stitt
> > > > >
> > > > > On Wed, Nov 10, 2010 at 10:10 PM, Ron L'Herault <[email protected]>
> > > > > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > >> It was probably a riveting tool with a long reach. You could pop
> > > > >> rivet
> > > > >> them
> > > > >> but that would not look quite right from the inside. Anyone else
> > > > >> know more
> > > > >> about riveting?
> > > > >>
> > > > >> Ron L
> > > > >>
> > > > >> -----Original Message-----
> > > > >> From: [email protected]
> > > > >> [mailto:[email protected]
> > > > >> ]
> > > > >> On
> > > > >> Behalf Of Vinyl Visions
> > > > >> Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 2010 10:58 PM
> > > > >> To: [email protected]
> > > > >> Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder"
> > > > >>
> > > > >>
> > > > >> I've been afraid to remove the rivets, since I don't know what
> > > > >> method they
> > > > >> used originally to put the rivets in without distorting the horn...
> > > > >> any
> > > > >> ideas?
> > > > >>
> > > > >>> From: [email protected]
> > > > >>> To: [email protected]
> > > > >>> Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2010 10:00:17 -0500
> > > > >>> Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder"
> > > > >>>
> > > > >>> Have you tried drilling out the rivets and taking the part to a
> > > > >>> musical
> > > > >>> Instrument repair shop? They may be able to straighten it out.
> > > > >>> Then you
> > > > >>> can rivet it back on.
> > > > >>>
> > > > >>> Ron L
> > > > >>>
> > > > >>> -----Original Message-----
> > > > >>> From: [email protected]
> > > > >>> [mailto:[email protected]
> > > > >>> ]
> > > > >> On
> > > > >>> Behalf Of Vinyl Visions
> > > > >>> Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 2010 8:30 AM
> > > > >>> To: [email protected]
> > > > >>> Subject: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder"
> > > > >>>
> > > > >>>
> > > > >>>
> > > > >>> I don't know what you call it exactly, but does anyone sell
> > > > >>> replacements
> > > > >>> for the brass ball holder that is riveted to a cygnet horn? If so,
> > > > >>> how do
> > > > >>> you go about replacing it? Mine was torn up by someone trying to
> > > > >>> replace
> > > > >> the
> > > > >>> ball.
> > > > >>>
> > > > >>> Curt
> > > > >>>
> > > > >>> _______________________________________________
> > > > >>> Phono-L mailing list
> > > > >>> http://phono-l.oldcrank.org
> > > > >>>
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