TRUST ME FRANK
YOU CAN SOLDER THIS
Really, go down to radio Shack, and get the really fine solder wire they sell.
Actually, any good resin-core (NOT acid-core or plumbing solder)
solder is fine,
Kester makes good solder, but fine solder wire is important for delicate work.
If you want to practice first, that's a great idea. Here are the basics:
1: Always make a good mechanical connection: twist or crimp wires
together or to
their contact(s) BEFORE soldering them.
2: Use a 30 watt pencil iron. Tin the tip first with solder (coat it
with solder
so it's shiny silver, not raw copper). I personally like to file
one side of my
standard conical-point flat so it looks a little like a chisel.
that's so I can
hold the flat side of the tip against the contact: the more
contact area, the
better to heat the contacts/wire quickly, which is also important.
3: Hold the iron against the wires/contacts lightly but firmly, and
after a second
or two, apply the end of the solder wire to the opposite side of
the contact/wire.
The solder should melt at once, and flow into (not over) the
contact area, evenly
coating the wires and contact area. Keep pushing the solder wire
gently until the
connection is coated with solder, then remove the iron and solder.
This entire
process should take no more than a few seconds. It's important not
to heat the
components forany longer than you must, as heat can damage components.
4: Finally, do not move/jiggle or disturb the solder joint for a few
seconds. This is
the cause of most solder joint failures or poor electronic
connections. Moving the
connection while the sodler is setting will make a "cold" solder
joint, which is
often evident by it's dull lustre (it should be bright and shiny).
That's your soldering basics. In your case, there are a couple of
other things to know,
and remember, you can use this skill for the rest of your life.
Because you're working on
a computer board with static-sensitive CMOS technology, you want to
ground yourself to
the board. Wet your finger and touch any metal part inside the
computer (I promise you
won't get a shock, and I KNOW you'll have the thing unplugged and
powered down). Remove
the old fuse, if it's soldered on, by sliding a coffee stir-stick or
something like that
under the fuse, to apply gentle pressure. Then touch the soldering
iron tip to each of the two tiny silver pads on the other side of the
board, in quick succession. You might have to go back and forth a
couple of times, while levering the fuse up with the stick. I know it
sounds like you need three hands (or five), but it's really not that
hard.
When the old fuse pops out, you want to make sure the holes are
clear. I generally blow through them while touching the iron to the
underside of the board. Make sure the iron isn't overloaded with
solder at this point, so it can "pick up" the solder from the pads.
Now it's simply a matter of popping the new fuse into the holes the
same way, and soldering
it in place. Remember to hold the iron tip against the fuse pins
sticking through the board, and apply solder quickly and sparingly.
If you do it right, the solder will form tiny pool around the pin and
pad. When it's cool ( about thirty seconds to be safe), use
small sidecutters to clip off the excess pin (above the solder pool),
and you're done!
The tedious part is taking the case apart and putting it all back the
way you found it!
That's what technicians (like myself) charge for; it's finicky and
time-consuming. Often
crucial assembly screws are hidden under plastic plugs, and it's easy
to lose a screw if
you don't put them all in a small bowl. Some parts are spring-loaded,
or can break when
pried apart. If you can manage that part, the soldering part will be a cinch.
My apologies for the long post, but I figure there may be others out
there unsure of how exactly to solder components, so I posted the
Whole Deal for everyone. Good luck Frank,
and don't hesitate to contact me if you get stuck, I can take you
through it. But I'm
sure you'll do fine, and I know that his is a skill you'll be glad
you have over the years!
Martin Perras
Atelier Design
Victoria BC CANADA
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