If you have the V5C for the car you can tax it online within an hour or
so of taking out the insurance as it's all done through the computers.
You now have a period of time (10 days i think) after taxing online
where you won't get done for not displaying a tax disc so you can go out
for a drive straight away.
Jim
On 24/06/2010 10:46, taximark wrote:
my kingdom for an xr2 engine (though a friend has just written off his
rs turbo.. watch this space) ... My Q is fitted with the standard 1.4
cvh!
Have checked all the connections and liberally dosed them with wd40.
Still no fix so I suspect I may be stripping the carb.
I think for the future I will lure the good lady out with coffee and
biscuits to work the pedal to bleed the brakes. She had her first ride
in the Q yesterday and after discovering that she needs to put her
hair up in a soft top she quite enjoyed the attention we were getting.
Just waiting for the piece of paper from FJ then I can get some Tax
and I think the seaside beckons.
Mark
On Jun 24, 10:34 am, Jim Hearne<[email protected]> wrote:
Bleeding the system often seems to be a problem on Quantums.
I've tried a pressure bleeder and a vacuum bleeder with mixed results.
The pressure bleeder seems to upset some master cylinders, especially if
you press the brake pedal with it connected.
I suspect it flips the seals in the cylinder. (i was using the correct
pressure).
It also make a big mess if the cap pops off while you are doing it !!!
But otherwise works well.
The vacuum bleeder is easier to use but tends to suck air in around the
bleed nipples so it's difficult to be sure when you have all the air out.
I just suck a load of fluid through with it and it's normally ok.
I had an XR2 once that would cutout on corners with dirt in the float
chamber, i guess under the right conditions the dirt moves across and
blocks the fuel intake in the carb.
Otherwise, check for rust on the ignition coil low voltage terminals
(had that as well) and the wiring to the cutoff valve on the carb.
Theres not much electronics on the XR2 engine !
Have you got the earlier distributor with the ECU or the later normal one ?
Jim
On 24/06/2010 10:26, Mark Miles wrote:
Bleeding the brakes properly. I had been trying to bleed the brakes on
my own and thought I had been successful. I had replaced all the brake
fluid, I flushed through just over 1.5 litres of fluid and wasn't
getting any air bubbles at any of the nipples. A friend of mine came
round and found that the brake pipe for the rear NS had a real high
point along its length. We just bent that to some semblance of
straight then bled the system with two of us... that pipe was almost
full of air, but it cured the soft pedal. I suppose the message there
is that a half full jar of brake fluid is not as good as a friend,
though I didn't have to take the jar to the pub afterwards. A lot of
the advisories on the MOT were brake related, the tester tells me that
these are almost certainly because the car has sat for so long and
should improve with use.... I guess time and distance will reveal the
truth of that. The only point he said should be dealt with urgently is
the inboard and outboard n/s cv gaiters. What are your thoughts on the
split gaiters? I have used them on several vehicles previously with
mixed results.
I thought about dirt as a possible cause but discounted it (ok I
didn't check but will do today) because the cut out is almost like a
switch being thrown. There is an instant loss of power and it comes
back just as quick. Also my background is electrical and I am far more
comfortable with wiring than fuel systems. I have a vague recollection
that it did this once or twice in the last few days I was using it
before it went into 'storage' but I didn't worry about it as I wasn't
going to be using the car. If I had known then how easy and cheap it
was going to be to get her back on the road she wouldn't have been
parked up for so long.
total costs: 1 Exhaust....�113 and 2L Brake fluid at �8.40. 4 grazed
knuckles and an embarrassed neighbour (the air did turn blue once or
twice). I also drained off the old petrol, someone told me that petrol
goes off over time and it had been in the tank for 18 months.
Again thank you for the help, I look forward to meeting the guys from
here.
Mark
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*From:* Jim Hearne<[email protected]>
*To:* [email protected]
*Sent:* Thu, 24 June, 2010 9:49:49
*Subject:* Re: [Quantum Owners] Re: 2+2 Paintwork
Hi Mark,
What fixed your brake problem in the end ?
I've had similar cutting out problems due to dirt in the carb.
Jim
On 24/06/2010 09:27, taximark wrote:
I do have a couple of suitable trees and did give it a try. I think
that fear of damaging the pipe stopped me from trying too hard though.
The MOT guy has given me an advisory for the exhaust touching the body
so I must sort this at some point in the not too distant future.
I got to go out and play for a while last night and found a really
irritating problem. On really hard left turns the engine cuts out,,,
then just starts going again. The harder the turn the longer it cuts
out for. It is so instant that it seems electrical and never lasts
more than a second, I have checked the obvious wiring (coil, dizzy
etc) but can't see any probs there. Has anyone else experienced this
problem?
Mark
On Jun 23, 11:11 pm, "jon jackson"<[email protected]
<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
Got any trees with "V" branches on them near you? They are great
for bending
pipes a little.
I have to say that I have got really attached to my Quantum 2+2 RS
and can
easily see why some of you use them all the time.
Not many kit cars have a big boot and sensible screen with good
looks too.
I must join the club.
Cheers Jon
----- Original Message -----
From: "taximark"<[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>>
To: "Quantum Owners Group"<[email protected]
<mailto:[email protected]>>
Sent: Thursday, June 17, 2010 7:18 PM
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Re: 2+2 Paintwork
Thanks Jim,
Having started to drain the system the brake fluid is coming through
cloudy so I am guessing that it is not much good.... some munchies and
then off to finish the job.
Got the new exhaust fitted, I thought I needed to bend the exhaust, it
runs the length of the car as far as the back box quite nicely. The
tailpipe is about 5 inches to the right of the recess in the bodywork
but it doesn't foul anywhere so I think I will put up with that until
I can find someone with kit to bend it properly.
Thanks for all the advice.
Mark
On Jun 17, 3:00 pm, Jim Hearne<[email protected]
<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
2L should be enough to flush through all the dirty stuff.
Jim
On 17/06/2010 14:18, taximark wrote:
Just off to buy some brake fluid... anyone have any idea how much the
system will need?
Mark
On Jun 17, 10:32 am, taximark<[email protected]
<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
The pads have not been changed, According to the paperwork the
car has
only done around 4500 miles since being converted and it would
appear
that new pads were fitted then, The tyre condition would also
tend to
reinforce that impression still appearing almost brand new. I did 3k
of those miles in the few months I had the car on the road.
I was hoping to get the car on the road for this weekend and head up
to the show. It would be good to meet some other owners. My car
would
also make everyone elses look much better. This project is a
first for
me as I have always been a 'throw it at a specialist' kind of car
owner. I must be getting old now because I begrudge spending the
money
and quite fancy the satisfaction of driving something I have
worked on
myself. I last did that with a mkIII cortina 25 years ago.
Mark
On Jun 17, 10:20 am, Jim Hearne<[email protected]
<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
Not if nothing has been done to the brakes but if you'd changed the
pads
recently it's easily done.
Jim
On 17/06/2010 10:01, taximark wrote:
And regards the spring clip, is that likely as the brakes were
fine
before the car was parked up?
Mark
On Jun 17, 9:35 am, Jim Hearne<[email protected]
<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
Something seizing would normally make the pedal harder (but
probably
not
noticeably so).
I've had problems with rust in the master cylinder bore caused by
water
sitting there.
This was with silicone brake fluid so the water stays
separated and
sits
at the lowest points in the system.
With normal brake fluid the water gets absorbed into the
fluid and
shouldn't cause this problem.
It could just be old fluid so try flushing it through with new
first.
Also, just a though, make sure the spring clip is fitted to the
outside
of the front calipers, this missing gives a soft pedal.
Jim
On 17/06/2010 09:24, taximark wrote:
Hi Jon
I look forward to seeing the pics of this. My hood is going
to have
to
wait for a while so hopefully it isn't going to be a wet summer.
I shall be spending the morning trying to find out why the
brakes
don't work very well. I have very litttle braking effort and the
pedal
is like pressing treacle, very spongy and soft. There is some
braking
effort but way short of any real use. I am guessing that
something
has
probably siezed while the car has been parked up. If anyone
has any
suggestions they would be appreciated but I don't think a strip
down
and rebuild is going to do any harm to the brakes, after all
they
are
kinda important.
Then this afternoon I will be fitting the exhaust and
hopefully **
...
read more »
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