Hi Matthew,
Before giving up on the existing pump it is highly advised that you check a)
that it is properly earthed and b) that the volts are actually getting to
it, even if you have changed the fuse. Many kit cars were built by people
who did not follow the guidelines of clamping wires properly and it is not
unusual to find wires that have simply fretted off at the connectors having
been flapping in the wind for a long time. Also the rear section is prone
to being covered by a lot of road dirt, which piled onto brass connectors
can lead to erosion either in the crimped section or the blade/bullet itself
corroding off the wire attachment - I get this up front on the alternator
connections, which have to be replaced every couple of years due to the joys
of living by the sea. I am not aware of the 2+2 tank situation but on the
H4 with injection, Quantum put an inspection flap above the tank pump
position so that it could be connected, checked and replaced if necessary.
N.B. If you have the PATS system connected then your pump will come on for
about 5 s when you key-on then cut out. This can be frustrating when trying
to check for a circuit! There is also a fuel pump relay which might
possible respond to being removed and replaced to clean the terminals.
Once you have check the above then and only then consider spending money.
Since you mention ticking rather than purring for the pump sound, it appears
that you have carburettors as injection supply pumps produce a continuous
tone when on. If you have an electric carburettor pump then it is unlikely
to be a Ford item and has probably come from a motor factor. Such items
used to cost between £50 - £60 but it is some time since I bought one.
Separate high pressure pumps for injection engines, such as Jag XJ6, cost
>£200 new but are such fine precision items that if not full of crud they
are likely to last the life of the car - rebuilding them is possible but not
for the faint hearted as they are classified as non serviceable items, i.e
crimped together around the end plate seal. If you do have an injection
engine then you could expect to have an in-tank Ford high pressure unit, in
which case a trip to the breakers would be worth while - take a very wide
set of pliers or something with which you can remove the keeper ring. The
in-tank units run exposed and are serviceable to a limited extent.
Good Luck!
Hamish
-----Original Message-----
From: MatthewG
Sent: Thursday, April 28, 2011 5:06 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Fuel pump query
Hi all,
I've just collected my 2+2 back from having a final few repairs to
ready me for Stoneleigh when the cruel hand of fate has handed me a
new problem. :-(
To keep the story short, I know it's the fuel pump because I don't
hear its 'ticking' sound when the ignition is on but it's the annoying
kind of fault that comes and goes. When it decides to work the car is
running great...
I've changed the fuse but haven't got much further as my Haynes manual
seems to be saying the pump is mechanically driven by the engine; I
know that my pump is electric and is right at the back of the car on
the nearside. But as I didn't build the car I don't have any Quantum
build manuals to refer to. I also can't see any wire that's obviously
loose and don't fancy playing with electrical stuff near to fuel
anyway.
If I can't get this sorted in the next 48 hours I guess I won't make
Stoneleigh so I'm desperately hoping that one of you nice chaps can
tell me a part number or better still a rough price for a new pump.
Here's hoping, and thanks in advance.
Matthew
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IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an "As Is"
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the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in the preparation of the
above information shall have any liability to any person or entity with respect to
liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be caused directly or indirectly by the
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