Well I’ve made some progress despite the bulkhead holes being all wrong I’ve cleaned up the brackets
http://s120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/?action=view¤t=07022012004.jpg and mounted them on my stainless plate that does have the holes in the right position (to within .3mm if im being nerdy) I mounted them to the plate http://s120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/?action=view¤t=07022012005.jpg you can see the servo mount holes being asymmetric both sides http://s120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/?action=view¤t=07022012008.jpg but the distance point to point across the furthest apart holes is the same as the mondeo servo, so…. http://s120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/?action=view¤t=07022012009.jpg clamping them face to face I can mark the positions for the new holes through the old http://s120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/?action=view¤t=07022012011.jpg like so and voilà, nice slotted holes that can now take a fiesta servo and a mondeo servo which fits a treat now http://s120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/?action=view¤t=07022012012.jpg if ever this actually works ill bundle this info together and do a write up for the club mag since there seems to be lots of ambiguous info about regarding the mondeo conversion On Feb 7, 3:04 pm, jin <[email protected]> wrote: > Funny you should mention that, i was punching into the end grain of > hard wood, and ive no idea why it has to be the end grain but this is > what i was taught during my aprentiship, and what ive always done > since, either way the wood seems almost harder than the wad punches - > almost. > > your right about halfords professional, ive only got 3 items from them > - 13 17 19 combi spanners, ive had them for 10+ years now and they are > still perfect, i used the 19mm to undo a very stubborn tie bar nut on > my first car, it was so tight i had to jack the car up on the spanner > then sit on the wing to shift the nut - the spanner is still as good > as new, one day ill treat myself to some more > > On Feb 7, 8:21 am, Jim Hearne <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > What were you punching onto ? > > Ideally you want a block of lead (or hard plastic, or hard wood) to > > punch onto as it won't damage the cutting edge. > > > Having to recently replace my complete toolbox (thanks Pikeys !) i have > > to agree, the quality of a lot of tools isn't as good as it used to be, > > even replacing like for like. > > I've found Sealey tools to be very good value for money. > > Halfords Professional as well, especially the ratchet spanners. > > > Jim > > > On 07/02/2012 06:17, jin wrote: > > > > ahh yes, the "workshop thumb" trick, > > > either way the holes are way out no mater how i copy their loctions > > > > talking of making gaskets, i tried for agaes to buy some wad punches > > > and in the end i had to buy some online from Draper which lasted all > > > of about 5 gaskets, is it me or is Draper going down hill in quality? > > > > On Feb 6, 9:03 pm, "Hamish Freeman"<[email protected]> wrote: > > >> Should you have this problem again, a simple way to set this up is to > > >> hold > > >> or preferably tape a piece of reasonably stiff paper over the area in > > >> question then run your finger over the area where the holes are to > > >> create an > > >> indent - there is usually enough "black stuff" around to mark the edges > > >> anyway. > > > >> Sorry if this is teaching you to suck eggs but my father taught me this > > >> method when I was as a small boy making gaskets for our motor mower. He > > >> grew up in an age when simple spares were not available over the counter > > >> as > > >> today and everything had to be home made. The next stage would be to > > >> press > > >> a ball bearing into the hole area to actually cut the paper where > > >> required. > > >> If doing this over say a casting, a sharp but relatively soft tap with a > > >> hammer will serve to complete the cut. I cut sump gaskets this way using > > >> the round end of a plenishing hammer. The trick with something this size > > >> is > > >> to cut the holes first and insert some dowels such as drill to hold the > > >> gasket in place whilst the outer edge then the inner edge are "tapped > > >> through". > > > >> It is amazing how many people I have shown this method who had not > > >> thought > > >> of the idea but I guess anyone who has done a craft apprenticeship would > > >> have learned this trick as a matter of course. > > > >> Hamish > > > >> -----Original Message----- > > >> From: [email protected] > > >> [mailto:[email protected]] > > > >> On Behalf Of jin > > >> Sent: 06 February 2012 16:17 > > >> To: Quantum Owners Group > > >> Subject: [Quantum Owners] servo mounting woes > > > >> ok so all is going well enough but ive come up against another head > > >> scratcher > > > >> ive cut out a square stainless plate to mount between the bulkhead and > > >> servo > > >> mounting brackets, (exactly as I have done on the pedal side) I used a > > >> straight edge across the front of the car using the upper most sub frame > > >> mounting holes as a datum and held the plate secure while scribing > > >> through > > >> the bulkhead to mark the 4 servo mounting bracket holes > > > >> Once I removed the plate it became clear that something was amiss, the > > >> holes > > >> were out of square with each other in relation to the stainless plate > > >> which > > >> is itself square and was held square to the bulkhead > > > >> My main question is...... > > > >> Are the servo brackets to bulkhead holes supposed to be exactly square to > > >> each other? > > > >> I thought it best to ask before o go elongating holes > > > >> my only doubt for this was brought about by realising that the actual > > >> servo > > >> to servo mounting holes appear to be not "square" in relation to each > > >> other, > > >> by which I mean if you line the 2 brackets parallel side by side to each > > >> other the PCD of the servo to bracket holes would make a trapezium shape > > >> and > > >> not square if that makes sense? > > > >> Trouble is my bulkhead scribe marks are long gone so I have no reference > > > >> Mine is the type A / low spec setup > > >> Cheers in advance > > > >> -- > > >> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > > >> "Quantum Owners Group" group. > > >> To post to this group, send email to [email protected] To > > >> unsubscribe from this group, send email to > > >> [email protected] > > >> For more options, visit this group > > >> athttp://groups.google.com/group/quantumowners?hl=en > > > >> IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an "As > > >> Is" > > >> basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum > > >> Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club > > >> or > > >> in the preparation of the above information shall have any liability to > > >> any > > >> person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or > > >> alleged to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained > > >> within this or related message(s).- Hide quoted text - > > > >> - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text - > > > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Quantum Owners Group" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/quantumowners?hl=en IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an "As Is" basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in the preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or related message(s).
