That doesn't sound too bad for an engine in a stationary car.
I presume thats 30 seconds on every few mins.
Maybe it is just a gauge/sensor mismatch making it read a bit higher than it would normally.
I'd wait until you've got it on the road before worrying too much.

Jim


On 25/04/2012 21:14, john.inman e-mail wrote:
The rad fan cycles on and off stays on for about 30 seconds or there abouts,water is flowing out of the pipe as it warms up so it looks like the water is flowing around the system ok On 25 April 2012 20:14, Jim Hearne <[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:

    Does the rad fan cycle on and off or just stay on ?
    Check the small pipe at the top of the reservoir as well if that's
    S/H, even though the reservoir is plastic there is steel insert
    moulded into the plastic where the pipe pushes on.
    Can you see water coming back out of this top pipe into the
    reservoir as the engine warms up ?

    Using a lower temperature stat may just mask a problem or not help.

    Jim






    On 25/04/2012 19:06, john.inman e-mail wrote:
    Its when its standing as its not ready for the road still
    rebuilding it ! have only run it up an down the drive,flushed out
    the heater matrix till it was clear but not sure if its the
    original or a patten replacement.Thermostat housing and pipe is
    new is it worth using a lower temp thermostat or will that make
    it run too cool?

    On 25 April 2012 15:43, Jim Hearne <[email protected]
    <mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:

        When you say "When i start it up in about five mins its in
        the red and stays below

        it once the fan kicks in ,Now to my mind ive got an air lock
        or the
        sender/temp gauge is telling me lies ! "
        Is that with the car standing or while driving ?
        The heater being just warm could be a clogged matrix or a
        poorer performing pattern one.
        There isn't much circulation from the header tank to the rest
        of the system so that may stay cooler.
        One thing to check though is the small pipe between the top
        of the reservoir and the outlet from the top of the stat housing.
        This is the pipe that lets the system auto bleed but it often
        gets blocked up at either end due to corrosion of the steel pipe.
        Jim

            *From:* john.inman e-mail <mailto:[email protected]>
            *Sent:* Tuesday, April 24, 2012 8:20 PM
            *To:* [email protected]
            <mailto:[email protected]>
            *Subject:* Re: [Quantum Owners] Coolent woes

            It's a qantum 2+2 with a 1.6 cvh engine. 1985 block and a
            1987 head.

            On 24 April 2012 18:43, Jim Hearne <[email protected]
            <mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:


                What car / engine ?

                Jim



                On 24/04/2012 18:08, john inman wrote:

                    Has anybody had any problems with there car
                    running hot? just that
                    mine likes to run just below the red line ! had a
                    new thermostat
                    (85-87 deg) and a new sender (pink colour band)
                    and a good s/h temp
                    gauge from a 1.1 fiesta.Am using a header tank
                    from a sierra mounted
                    on the inner wing ,the coolent inside is just
                    warm but rest of the
                    hoses are hot and the same for the radiator hot
                    all along the face.
                    But the air from the heater is warm not hot.
                    When i start it up in about five mins its in the
                    red and stays below
                    it once the fan kicks in ,Now to my mind ive got
                    an air lock or the
                    sender/temp gauge is telling me lies ! !.Unless
                    anybody has come
                    across a simular problem any help is much
                    appreceated thanks


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