>Re: B pillar vents - to those who have these do the openings go straight >through into door pillar cavity or is their any kind of fabric/mesh on the >back? I don't know whether to drill my holes out >cleanly or not. The >effectiveness of these also seems a bit dubious to me (although QSC appreas to >contradict this when they warn about water being sucked in somehow without >blocking >pillars?....). When car is moving I can see they are in a low >pressure area but with all interior trim fitted seems like cabin air would >have a pretty restricted path to exit?
I suspect the mess is probably there in an attempt to stop water going through the holes too much. There is no water drain from behind the B pillar so any that got in would sit around on top of the sill. The plastic vents i have in my B pillars have an enclosed section behind with only an opening at the top so you would have to point a hose directly at it to get any water inside. You could do something similar with fibreglass behind the holes you already have, make a fibreglass part moulded from a lunchbox or similar with one end open. Then glass that into place. >Re: Parcel shelf vents - I had also considered this but I would have thought >to be effective their needs to be a low pressure opening in boot area >somewhere to pull cabin air through. External rear >quarter vents from Buebird >seems like they would work well to achieve this but I am not keen chop body in >visible area. I am thinking a simple tube type duct/vent through boot floor >may work – I >already have boot mods for fuel pumps, swirl pot, ARB mounts >etc. so another mod will not matter there. Yes, you would need vents in the boot as well as the parcel shelf for that to really work. Or it you have the vents in the B pillar then vent through the parcel shelf and then through the sides of the inner boot which would eventually end up at the B pillar vents via above the wheel arch. Would the boot floor be a low pressure area or a high pressure one due to the air being compressed under the car, getting a bit physics for me. >Re: Heated windscreen - I always liked these in my Mondeos. Who supplies >these? Were they a Ford factory option for Fiesta Mk2? If my screen has to >come out (when I start chasing leaks) I would >consider this if cost is not too bad. I’m sure somebody posted a link here for the Mk2 Fiesta heated front screens (it was never an option on the MK2, these are aftermarket) very recently but i can’t find it, strange. Jim From: [email protected] Sent: Friday, March 26, 2021 12:27 PM To: Quantum Owners Group Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Saloon Ventilation Thanks to all for their input on ventilation question. Just to confirm my saloon suffered from internal misting up (front, side and rear). I am currently rebuilding - most of the car is stripped apart from dash & engine bay so now would be a good time to install any rear vents/ducting to prevent future problems. Just before I took car off road I was getting major water ingress - i.e. footwells soaked (misting was happening before this though). A lot of this water was coming through glass sunroof which had obvious signs of previous attempts to seal. Sunroof has now been removed and replaced with bonded in blanking panel with roof reinforced so no more water from there. Re; Front arch intakes - I had a quick look and it seemsf both wheel arches already have covers at front - some sort of soft material. Re: B pillar vents - to those who have these do the openings go straight through into door pillar cavity or is their any kind of fabric/mesh on the back? I don't know whether to drill my holes out cleanly or not. The effectiveness of these also seems a bit dubious to me (although QSC appreas to contradict this when they warn about water being sucked in somehow without blocking pillars?....). When car is moving I can see they are in a low pressure area but with all interior trim fitted seems like cabin air would have a pretty restricted path to exit? Re: Parcel shelf vents - I had also considered this but I would have thought to be effective their needs to be a low pressure opening in boot area somewhere to pull cabin air through. External rear quarter vents from Buebird seems like they would work well to achieve this but I am not keen chop body in visible area. I am thinking a simple tube type duct/vent through boot floor may work - I already have boot mods for fuel pumps, swirl pot, ARB mounts etc. so another mod will not matter there. Re: Heater leak - always a possibility but I don't think mine is leaking (fingers crossed!). Since I stripped interior and dried it out there has not been any further water in footwells (car is under cover now). With engine running and cooling system under pressure this could change but at moment I cannot start engine to test. Re: Heated windscreen - I always liked these in my Mondeos. Who supplies these? Were they a Ford factory option for Fiesta Mk2? If my screen has to come out (when I start chasing leaks) I would consider this if cost is not too bad. Obviously any water in the cabin is going to cause condesation problems so I will be trying to chase down any possible water entry points as I rebuild. One obvious area looks like the front window rubbers - I have at least a 5mm gap bewteen glass and rubber lip. John On Monday, 22 March 2021 at 22:40:59 UTC [email protected] wrote: I have a BMW 180A alternator fitted for just such a reason, that and the EPAS which also pulls loads of power too :-). Not sure whether that alternator will fit on a cvh or zetec mind you.... As fitted to N47 on e6x ,8x and 9x BMW and mini, cheaper than a fiesta unit ! Darren On Mon, 22 Mar 2021, 18:57 Derek Clews, <[email protected]> wrote: That is huge on a standard alternator! Must take an hour of running to recharge the battery after a cold morning start? Derek On 22 Mar 2021, at 17:52, Darren Siepka <[email protected]> wrote: Ah no , this is an auxiliary heater matrix, runs on 12v from the car! Pulls like 80a or so! See piccys. Darren On Mon, 22 Mar 2021, 13:37 Derek Clews, <[email protected]> wrote: On my 2+2 rebuild I am going to fit a sump heater to use 240V to preheat the oil in the engine to reduce wear and provide quicker heat for short journeys. At present I have to drive around 5 miles before the car is up to temperature. The energy required to heat water like you are doing using 12 V is a great deal. How does that even work? Or is it 240V as well? Reading it again you don't say. 240V only works when you are starting from home, not the works car park. On a really cold day start I have been known to runout a cord and mains fan heater to warm up the car before I go! Derek. On 22 Mar 2021, at 13:16, Darren Siepka <[email protected]> wrote: The electric elements as fitted to recent diesel OEM vehicles work amazingly! They do draw lots of leccy so beware. I have put one in supplement to the water radiator in my current 2+2 rebuild to enable near instant hot air upon startup , they reach temp in about 60seconds! I am using one from a focus/Volvo ( same parts) very simple to operate, a simple pwm signal sets the output, but there are other versions like the ones on Mk7 8 fiesta that use a multi wire approach to level setting. Darren On Mon, 22 Mar 2021, 11:35 Derek Clews, <[email protected]> wrote: I have taken the low tech approach and just crack the windows open as necessary. Beginning to think the electric screen is the right idea. Pity they are only in clear colour as all my Q’s are light green glass. Put have wondered about the latest generation of electric blower demisters. Seems that are good enough for Caterham to get approved with only them fitted. Derek On 22 Mar 2021, at 10:43, kynastonp . <[email protected]> wrote: When I built my saloon people were complaining about misting of the side and rear windows , the factory suggested fitting the astramax vent in the rear of the door opening . I also fitted vents under the rear window to allow air through the parcel shelf and more vents from the sides of the boot into the inner wing . Never had a problem after that . The vents some people have fitted in the rear wings are from a Nissan bluebird from 1986 onwards. Get Outlook for Android ------------------------------------------------------------------ From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Darren Siepka <[email protected]> Sent: Monday, March 22, 2021 10:17:48 AM To: [email protected] <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Saloon Ventilation Further to what Jim was saying about air pressure, I was told that the venting assisted in making sufficient air movement in the cabin to let the blower pull in air more easily whilst not causing a negative differential to the outside which would have encouraged leaks.. I have the grey Slat type vents in my saloon door post. The best fix for windscreen misting would be to put an electric heated screen in , which are a straight fit :-) On Mon, 22 Mar 2021, 10:05 Jim Hearne, <[email protected]> wrote: My understand of the issue with the ventilation in the saloon was more misting of the rear side windows and rear screen. Hence the fitting of the vents in the B pillars (mine has those) or in the rear quarters. I don’t remember having any real issues on my saloon but it does also have the splash guards in front of the front wheel arches. As you say, the only real exit from a unmodified saloon is via the door hinge openings. Although, remember when the door is shut 99% of that area is blocked off by the other half of the hinge. I believe there have been cases of the bonded in glass popping out when doors are slammed due to the air pressure. Jim From: 'Bill Allison' via Quantum Owners Group Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2021 8:12 PM To: Quantum Owners Group Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Saloon Ventilation John Am I correct in thinking that, like many Q saloon owners, you are troubled with dampness in the cabin and the consequent high (in comparison with mass-produced cars) tendency for windows to steam up and such? Prompted by a drive in torrential rain last year which caused the windscreen to instantly and heavily steam up, reducing vision to near zero, I investigated and as a result modified my Q as follows, which has resulted in dramatic improvement. The mod is simple. Block off the heater air intakes in the underside of the front wings just behind the headlights (I used some nice springy closed cell polyurethane 50mm sponge cut oversize to the roughly triangular shape of the intakes). The heater now draws air only through the door hinge holes, where the air is relatively dry. The front intakes, effectively within the wheel arch, drew not only moist air but water droplets when driving in even quite light rain. Other owners have fitted wing arch panels to shield the intakes from heavy tyre spray but I believe that to be ineffective in the more extreme wet conditions. You will be wondering whether the area of the hinge openings is sufficient, as was I, but although I was prepared to drill a couple of additional 30mm dia holes each side that has not been necessary. The area of the hinge holes is approximately equal to the area of the gap around the lower (below waistline) portion of the door and at 80cm2 each side appears to be sufficient. B pillar vents - mine has them but I believe the only real benefit is on the nearside, to prevent a build-up of petrol fume in the event of an imperfect seal in any of the filler pipe joins. If you would like a chat to discuss further, my contact details are below. HTH Best regards Bill Bill Allison Borders Group of Advanced Motorists National Observer (Cars) www.facebook.com/BordersAdvancedMotorists The contents of this message, and any attachments, may include information that is private and confidential and should not be read by persons other than the intended addressee(s). IAM RoadSmart nor the sender accepts any responsibility for viruses and it is your responsibility to check the email and any attachments. If you have received this email in error, please inform the sender and delete the message from your computer. IAM RoadSmart is a trading name. IAM RoadSmart is a trademark. Charity number: 249002 (England and Wales) SC041201 (Scotland). Registered Address: 1 Albany Place, Hyde Way, Welwyn Garden City AL7 3BT. On Friday, 19 March 2021, 18:26:38 GMT, [email protected] <[email protected]> wrote: Just wondering what other saloon owners recommend to improve cabin ventilation? My saloon (late 1991 factory build) has matrix of holes drilled in each door pillar above striker. This is referenced in an old QSC tech bulletin (dated aug 1993). It also mentions that QSC are now using Astramax Van vents in same position and Graham Lindley used vents in rear wing before rear lights. So which, if any of these work? Inside the door pillar on mine the hole matrix seems to have been covered with some semi airtight mesh (or what's left of it) - was this standard or someone trying to block off the holes becuase it does not work? The same QSC bulletin also states that with any of these methods the A pillar tube alongside the windscreen must be blocked off with expanding builders foam to form a dam to stop water getting in? - I guess there was a concern that low pressure would cause water to be sucked in but not clear exactly where that was likely to occur. I have not yet checked my A pillars but maybe other owners may know more. John -- -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Quantum Owners Group" group. 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