Sounds promising.
If the battery has been off then it will take about 20mins for the ECU to
relearn it’s settings.
The idle should adjust itself through the idle control valve unless you have
been adjusting the throttle stop which you shouldn’t really.
You may have fun adjusting it back as the ecu will be fighting you.
Jim
From: flob...@gmail.com
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2023 3:15 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] H4/Facebook problem
New crank sensor and blanking plugs fitted, fired up first time revs went to
about 1500 and then died down and settled at 1100 rpm with no misfire; just
need to let it warm up and set idle, haven't time to that today.
Thanks for your help Jim.
Russ
On Sunday, October 15, 2023 at 4:03:07 PM UTC+1 flob...@gmail.com wrote:
Today after taking the cooling fan out I removed the EGR junk and got the
sensor out working from above without too much difficulty. The new sensor and 4
blanking plugs should arrive before the end of the week.
On Thursday, October 12, 2023 at 4:45:16 PM UTC+1 Jim Hearne wrote:
Yup, that’s it, its a bit fiddly.
Last one i did i did from below, i removed the starter motor bolts and
moved the starter to one side.
I didn’t disconnect the starter wires as the nuts were so rusty they didn’t
look like they would come undo without something breaking.
Only 1 bolt (torx unless it’s been changed) holds the black sensor on, the
aluminium bit stays on the block and is fitted from inside the gearbox
bellhousing
The main issue is if the aluminium part has corroded onto the sensor.
A lot of people (me included) do remove the EGR, blank off the 4 holes in
the exhaust manifold (or get an earlier manifold one without the holes) and
remove the gubbins, pipework, differential pressure sensor and i think a
solenoid valve.
Jim
From: flob...@gmail.com
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2023 4:37 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] H4/Facebook problem
Thanks for the advice so far. Today I found the sensor (eventually) it's
hidden behind by what appears to be part of an EGR system and just above the
starter motor. I see no reason I can't remove the device and blank off the
exhaust and inlet manifold connexions, does this seem reasonable?
Russ
On Tuesday, October 10, 2023 at 2:06:46 PM UTC+1 Jim Hearne wrote:
Ok, sounds like the TOAD immobilizer is doing what it’s supposed to.
I would put money on the crank sensor given the misfire that isn’t tied
to a specific cylinder.
When they fail they start by misfiring then fail completely when hot.
Jim
From: flob...@gmail.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2023 1:42 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] H4/Facebook problem
Yes it has a TOAD immobilizer. Have both types of key only ever used key
with red patch.
Tried to start car this morning without unsetting the immobiliser engine
did not start unset immobiliser with fob, engine started first time as always,
revs up and down but not as bad as previously some misfiring but as the temp
gauge started to move tickover settled at about 1000 rpm and engine still
missing; waited for engine to stall - it did not, switched off and restarted
every time but still misfiring, disconnected one plug at time but engine
still started every time, thought missing was worse when plug 1 or 4
disconnected (not really an obvious difference so perhaps just my imagination)
so changed coil pack & leads no difference, forgot to change plugs, will do
that just in case.
Russ
On Monday, October 9, 2023 at 7:46:35 PM UTC+1 Jim Hearne wrote:
Ah, no, i got caught out by the reply to group or reply to sender that
Google does sometimes.
So everybody else can see:
You say you started it without turning the immobilizer off ?, i assume
this is an after market one and not the PATS system from your donor car.
Though depending on the age of the donor you may not have PATS, do you
have a Red key or a Black Key with a red dot on it.
IT could be an after marker immobilizer playing up.
When it stalls and wont restart, check the voltage on the centre pin of
the 3 pin plug on the ignition coil, there should be 12 to 13 volts there.
If you still have voltage there i would go back to suspecting the crank
sensor, the symptoms do fit with that.
If you have no voltage then suspect the immobilizer, bypass it if you
can.
Jim
On 09/10/2023 12:18, Jim Hearne wrote:
I replied to you here last night but that message seems to have
disappeared as well.
Have you been upsetting the Internet !
I will redo the reply later.
Jim
From: flob...@gmail.com
Sent: Monday, October 9, 2023 12:10 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] H4/Facebook problem
Sorry forgot to add my name to the above post.
Russ
On Sunday, October 8, 2023 at 10:13:06 PM UTC+1 Matthew Wastell wrote:
Hi, you are Russ aren’t you?
Just checked Facebook group and no Russ has joined in the last
month according to the logs. And don’t recall any posts about non starting
recently.
Were you in this group?
Quantum Sports Cars Group
facebook.com
Good luck with the car.
Matthew
On 8 Oct 2023, at 19:08, flob...@gmail.com <flob...@gmail.com>
wrote:
I started a thread on Facebook to which I recv'd several helpful
replies about a problem with an H4 but now my facebook account has been
suspended, i don't what rule I have broken as I only opened the account this
week and that thread was the only one I have commented on so I'll continue on
here.
I have now checked and there is no spark after engine stalls and
i try to restart it, however if the engine stalls after running for a only a
few seconds I can restart it. It occurred to me that the immobilizer could be
causing the problem but I tried resetting it and the LED that shows it is off
is lit and car will not start.
After writing the above I tried starting the car from cold
without turning the immobilizer off and the car started ran for 10-20 sec
stalled and would not restart. So perhaps the immobiliser is the problem?
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