Excellent, Anne! Yes, that is my preferred position for climbing as well, 
relatively, and one of the reasons I so love the Albastache bars. Great job 
playing around -- keep on learning!

With abandon,
Patrick

On Monday, April 28, 2014 5:44:15 PM UTC-6, Anne Paulson wrote:
>
> I figured out one position change that made a big difference.
>
> I have Jones Loop H bars, which I like a lot. But I'd been always riding 
> with my hands out at the ends of the bars. Turns out, if I put my thumbs 
> inside the loop and grasp the bars that way, it makes a huge difference in 
> climbing. Huge. My hands have moved forward and inboard, and now the front 
> wheel tracks a whole lot better. 
>
>
> On Sat, Apr 26, 2014 at 7:04 PM, Nils Eng <ni...@silvercca.org<javascript:>
> > wrote:
>
>> Anne,
>> Don't despair!  This is EXACTLY the experience I had on my Krampus, but 
>> now it's sorted and he'd climb a telephone pole if I had the legs. I think 
>> it's the front end-- it's really slack-- and the way there is mucho weight 
>> on the back wheel.  While the "All-Mountain" geometry IS great for going 
>> down hills, it has the drawback of a "wander-y" front-end going uphill. 
>>  Long story short-- I got a longer stem, flipped it (downward), and dropped 
>> it down until I got the balance of downhill and uphill handling 
>> characteristics I wanted.  I also moved my saddle forward a bit.  The basic 
>> idea was to move weight forward and down w/o losing too much downhill 
>> awesomeness.  My stem was stock 70 mm and I'm now riding a 100.  I kept the 
>> same degree of rise as the original (7 degrees?) and then moved the stem 
>> down a spacer at a time until I liked it.  I also read somewhere that Grant 
>> thought that longer chain stays helped w/ climbing, so I moved the wheel 
>> back in the dropout, but I moved it back because I like the way it turns 
>> better with shorter stays. Anyway, I think with a little tweaking you can 
>> get it to feel the way you like.  All the best,
>> Nils
>>
>>
>> On Friday, April 25, 2014 9:27:22 PM UTC-6, Anne Paulson wrote:
>>>
>>>  
>>> I'm a big fan of low, low gears. I have them on both my Atlantises; my 
>>> Roadeo has pretty low gears too considering I never carry much on it. 
>>> People always say to me, "I don't want lower gears because then I couldn't 
>>> balance." I never understood that. I don't have a bit of problem riding at 
>>> 2.5 mph for long periods of time when I'm climbing something ridiculously 
>>> steep on one of my Rivendell bikes.
>>>
>>> But now I understand. I thought when I bought my new Surly Krampus 
>>> mountain bike I'd be able to climb even steeper dirt roads than I now can 
>>> climb on my Atlanti. I thought, I have an absurdly low gear on the Krampus 
>>> (15.6 inches, something like that), I have all the traction in the world, I 
>>> can climb anything.
>>>
>>> But no. I'm finding that I climb *worse* on the Krampus. It's 
>>> frustrating. There are dirt sections that I have no trouble on with the 
>>> Atlantis, with smooth tires, that I can't climb on the Krampus with the 
>>> knobbies.
>>>
>>> What's going on here? Front-end geometry? Wheel weight? Bottom bracket 
>>> height? I'm beginning to think I should have bought the Surly ECR (like 
>>> several people recommended) instead of the Krampus. Or maybe I just need to 
>>> learn how to climb on this new bike.
>>>
>>> On the other hand, when I bought the bike I also thought I'd be able to 
>>> go down steep trails that I'm afraid to descend on the Atlantis, and that 
>>> has proved to be true. My husband took one look at my new bike and said, 
>>> Wow, you have better traction on that than you have on foot. When I apply 
>>> the brakes on a steep downhill, the bike *slows down* instead of skidding.
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> -- Anne Paulson
>>>
>>> It isn't a contest. Enjoy the ride. 
>>>
>>>  
>>>
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>
>
>
> -- 
> -- Anne Paulson
>
> It isn't a contest. Enjoy the ride. 
>

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