Thanks for the advice all. I think I'll go back to the 26" rims to get the brake pads lowered and in a better position on the rim (also a good excuse to get some Rat Trap Passes!) and then rely on a LBS for adjustments if need be (any recommendations for a mechanic in Oakland? I've been using Hank and Frank on College Ave just for proximity to my house).
If I still feel I need something after that I'll then take a look at Paul Touring or Campy canti's, or possibly Motolites. If anyone has any experience running Motolites on a Hunq with wide tires and also racks let me know! On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 11:06 AM, Benz, Sunnyvale, CA <[email protected]> wrote: > Another aspect of "sponginess" that one should check for is brake pad > contact angle. While brake squeals can be attenuated by a bit of toe-in, > one should ensure that there isn't too much toe-in *and* the vertical > alignment of the pads is good. Specifically, ensure that the entire pad > contacts the rim and not just the top or bottom pad (this adjustment aspect > is 90° from the toe-in). One can easily verify this by examining the pads > after a little use; good adjustment means the pad has rub marks top to > bottom, on the front section of the pad. Of course, with enough wear, all > brake pads will become optimally adjusted. :) > > On the newer cantilever brakes that uses the "V-brake type mounting" (such > as on the Paul brakes), this adjustment can easily be done by actuating the > brakes semi-forcefully while the pad mounting nuts are tightened. > Cantilever brakes that use pads with the "smooth post" are a little more > challenging to get right. > > > > On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 9:29:55 AM UTC-8, Garth wrote: >> >> Direct facing photos of both front and rear would be useful ! >> This may help : >> http://www.bikeforums.net/recreational-cyclocross-gravelbiking/722673-cantilver-brake-faq.html >> >> I suspect and adjustment of the straddle wire would help. The basic >> straddle carriers are wonderful as they are much more flexible in setup. >> I've found any of the fixed ones are too limiting. Also, detach the >> straddle cable from the brake and hold it down at the carrier with one >> hand, and activate the brake with the other, it should feel smooth and >> without resistance. Cables and their routing angles all play a part in this >> and a resistance-free setup here is the foundation for any brake performing >> at it's best. >> >> A higher priced brakes is no more of a gauge of quality of braking than >> mid or even lower priced ones. Setup and pads are everything ! My favorite >> brakes are still the 80's post style cantilever Shimano or Suntour . >> > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the > Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To unsubscribe from this topic, visit > https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rbw-owners-bunch/oSXNjxvxYhM/unsubscribe > . > To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email to > [email protected]. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
