On Thu, May 26, 2016 at 10:47 PM, Tim Butterfield <timbutterfi...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Tim, > Lots of great info. Thanks. If I go with bar ends, I was thinking of > running the cable along the bar, existing the tape vertically through a > notch in the inside of the brake hoods. That may keep the cable loop from > going too far forward and interfering with a bag I may mount in the front > later. This might avoid the friction of following the bar further along > while still keeping the cable tucked in a bit. > > > I changed the right bar-end out for a 10-speed indexed Shimano BS79 > shifter > > I took a look at that shifter and one thing let to another until I was > looking at the Shimano SL-BSR1. I hadn’t thought I could get an 11-speed > group with bar ends. That’s tempting, though I would be giving up the > friction option. Like you say, it’s only a twist of the adjustment barrel > every so often to tweak it. But, then again, after reading the comments > after yours, I wonder whether I would be better off with the standard 3x9 > from Riv. I do like the gearing on that. > > Thanks. > > Tim > > Tim- Cable routing: Your routing plan sounds OK. But I didn't mean to suggest that there is noticeable friction when the cables are routed all the way to the stem. Theoretically? Yes. In observation? No, not if you use care to keep the bends as gradual as possible. I routed my shift cables along the bars to the stem, where the loops cross over to the opposite side of the downtube, and then cross over again between the downtube cable stops and the bottom bracket cable guide. This makes the loops from the bars to the downtube more gradual, and it keeps the cable housing from rubbing on the head tube. aka Sheldon Brown "criss-cross" <http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cables.html#crisscross> Drivetrain: 3 x 8 or 9 is excellent. You can use a medium-range cassette (11-28 or 30) with a Riv/touring triple and still get good gear spacing but a wide gear range. Also, 8 or 9 speed gear is more durable (wider chain spacing) and cheaper. 2 x 10 or 11 is also excellent. But you have to use a wider-range cassette to get the same gear range as a triple, and the gear spacing will be wider. If I'm dead set on using brifters, I prefer a double crank. If I'm dead set on a triple crank, I prefer bar-end shifters. In my experience, brifter triple shifting is picky. It works best with the standard Shimano road triple (50/39/30) and doesn't like to work well with other ring combinations (especially rings without ramps & pins). Whereas, shifting a triple with a Silver bar-end is super easy. And shifting a double with brifters seems to work pretty well. I use a Silver left shifter and indexed Shimano right shifter on both of my bikes with triple cranks. I use brifters on both of my bikes with double cranks. On Thu, May 26, 2016 at 11:09 PM, Tim Butterfield <timbutterfi...@gmail.com> wrote: > For some of the other components I'm narrowing down choices on... > > Bars - Nitto Randonneur - I want a drop bar and like the flare out of the > drop on these. Earlier, Tim removed my worry about possibly using brifters > on it. I had the FSA Wing Pro on my VO Rando and it was nice. I think the > Randonneur flare may be a little better for me, though that's just a guess > right now. > > Wheels - Since I am not likely to need much lighting, battery power should > be sufficient for lighting instead of getting a dyno. If I ever do any > touring later, I can get a dyno hub for the second wheel set. I like the > idea of Phil hubs, but am leaning towards the standard Riv wheels. I don't > know enough about Phils to know if extra cost difference would be worth it > for my application. > > > > Wheels: Riv/Rich recommend mid-range Shimano hubs, which are quite good. They're less expensive than boutique hubs, and any shop (or you) can service them easily. Pauls are nice (I have a set of 90s vintage freewheel Pauls), but I'm not convinced that they're worth the huge premium. I bought a Velo Orange Grand Cru Touring hub for my latest wheel build; it's about the same price as Ultegra hubs but it has cartridge bearings and is field-serviceable without tools. Bars: I love the Nitto Randonneur bars, but be warned that they come in a couple variants, the B132 and B135. I use the B135 because they have shorter reach (tops). This works better with brifters and/or TRP RRL brake levers, which have somewhat long ramps (I use B135s with TRP RRL levers on my two triple-crank-equipped bikes). I feel that the B132's longer reach would put the brake levers too far away for comfort; that bar would work better with vintage brake levers with shorter ramps. However, the B132 only comes in one width, 42 at the tops / 45 cm at the bottom. It's a bit narrow for me (I'm 6'1") but I really like the feel. The B135 comes in two widths, 42 or 44 at the tops. The Noodle, in comparison, comes in a ton of widths. B135 45cm B132 44cm Just for fun, here's the 44cm Noodle. B177 44cm -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
