I started out with Cani's (Avids) on my Handsome Devil but quickly grew frustrated and make the switch to V Brakes and they have worked great for 4 years. Mini Motos huh? nice tip -if the Cantis on my newly acquired vintage touring Schwinn Passage don't work out (Dia Compe 960s) I may give the Mini Motos a try and I won't need new brake levers.
On Tuesday, August 30, 2016 at 11:40:16 AM UTC-7, Brian Campbell wrote: > > This is why I no longer use cantilever brakes. V-brakes work and have > allowed me to stop futzing. I know the purists are taught to hate V-bakes > because they don't "look" the part, or you are lacking in mechanical skills > if you don't enjoy spending time with them.....In the real world they work > better, are easier to set up, easier to maintain and easier to service > (especially on the road if need be). I recently set up a set of Shimano SLR > mid profile canti-s on a 1983 Schwinn Voyageur SP and while they work ok, I > was reminded that they are a good bit more finicky ( and the Shimano brakes > are pretty well designed and easy to set up as far a canti's go) and > require more time that V-Brakes. > > I say go with the mini-motos' (if possible) and don't look back. You will > more than likely not have think about whether or not the brakes have been > "optimized" ever again...... > > FWIW, I used a set of Shimano XT V- brakes (silver) when I built up the > Hunqapillar frame you provided me (I am keeping it BTW, figured out my fit > issue)and the brakes were set up at the time of the build and have needed > nothing since. More powerful that any canti brake I have ever used. > > On Saturday, August 27, 2016 at 2:00:24 PM UTC-4, René wrote: > >> Here is the source of my original confusion; extracted from the article >> linked by Alan: >> "*Straddle cable and yoke position* >> To get the most out of your canti brake, it's crucial to get the straddle >> cable carrier (yoke) installed in the right position based on the type of >> brakes you are running. Simply put, you want to try to achieve a 90 degree >> angle between the pivot bolt/cable anchor/straddle cable. The angle formed >> if you drew a line from the pivot bolt to the cable anchor on the arm and >> along the straddle cable should be around 90 degrees. This gives you a >> good combination of modulation and power. It's possible to alter this >> angle to get more power, giving up modulation. A rough rule of thumb is >> low-profile brakes require a low straddle cable carrier position, wide >> profile brakes require a high straddle cable carrier position. Going even >> lower on a low-profile brake will give you more power, but the modulation >> will be lower and the brake pads will need to be set closer to the rim. >> This position also will feel a little mushy at the lever. Most lower >> profile canti brakes I see have the straddle carrier set too high. This >> might feel good at the lever; solid feeling, you might say, but when you >> need to hit the brakes you won't have the power needed to stop." >> >> See the sentence that starts with "A rough rule of thumb..." >> >> So I checked my Neo-Retro yoke position; it wasn't too high, limited by >> the crown fork cable hanger, probably around 1 - 1.5" above the fender >> (recent photo: https://flic.kr/p/Huku4A). Lowered it to almost touching >> the fender, just 5 - 6mm away, and though the feeling increased slightly, >> the braking is still less powerful than the rear Touring brake. >> >> Next step is to remove the rack (hassle!) to install the Touring brakes >> and check if the MiniMoto fit or not. >> >> Stay tuned... >> >> René >> >> On Thursday, August 25, 2016, adam leibow <ad...@lightvision.net> wrote: >> >>> >>> http://blackmountaincycles.blogspot.com/2013/03/get-most-out-of-your-canit-brake.html >>> >>> On Wednesday, August 24, 2016 at 4:49:20 PM UTC-7, René wrote: >>>> >>>> Hi all, >>>> >>>> I've had Paul Cantis on my Atlantis (and Hunqapillar) since I acquired >>>> them. Paul Centerpulls on the Homer after using the original Silver >>>> brakes, >>>> and now will have Compass brazed Centerpulls on the custom. I've also read >>>> everything I could find, including BQ's excellent volume on brakes to >>>> understand how to adjust these brakes properly. >>>> >>>> The question is regarding the brakes on my Atlantis. On the front it >>>> has the Paul Neo-Retro and on the rear the Paul Tourer. Per my education, >>>> the Neo-Retro needs the cable yoke to be as high as possible and the >>>> Tourer >>>> as low as possible for optimal function. >>>> >>>> When braking, the rear Tourer brake which by design should be less >>>> powerful, feels excellent, both in braking power and modulation. In fact, >>>> I >>>> can brake really well with it alone, and use it primarily to slow down >>>> prior to turns. >>>> >>>> Braking with the front Neo-Retro feels as if it has very little power >>>> and is very hard to stop the bike unless you press really hard. It doesn't >>>> feel as if it modulates, it's just that it's hard to stop the wheel. >>>> >>>> My experience before was usually the opposite, where the rear brake >>>> wasn't enough on its own, but you had to be careful with the front. >>>> >>>> I changed the pads on both brakes to see if that made a difference, but >>>> it didn't. >>>> >>>> Is there anything I'm missing? Is that just how these brakes work? I'm >>>> tempted to switch the front Neo-Retros for a set of Tourer brakes that >>>> were >>>> in the rear of my Hunqapillar, but am concerned I won't be able to get the >>>> cable yoke low enough with the front rack attachment. >>>> >>>> Any feedback would be appreciated. >>>> >>>> René >>>> >>> -- >>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google >>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. >>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send >>> an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. >>> To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. >>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. >>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. >>> >> -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. 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