Spring tension? What would that have to do with how well the brakes stop
the bike? Besides, spring tension is the same between the front and rear
brakes.

My plan is this:
- First try lowering the yoke as low as it will go on the Neo-Retros. I can
do it since the Nitto Campee front rack I have doesn't have the strut
connecting it to the fork crown. Note the difference if there is any.
- Swap the Neo-Retros for the other set of Touring brakes, now that I have
the low yoke. Note the difference
- Since I also have a set of MiniMotos I bought to see if they fit on
another bike, I may try them as well, but that would mean a potential
recabling which I'm not sure I want to do. I've also been advised that they
may not fit well with the 50mm fenders, so perhaps I'll just see how they
fit first, before setting them up. It was suggested that if I wanted the
ultimate braking power, I try the Motolites, although they'd require a new
set of V-brake levers, which I'm not so hot on.

Based on all my new learnings, I believe the Touring front and rear will
take care of my "problem".

I'd still want to know why the wide-profile cantilever brakes have
persisted for so long...

René

On Thu, Aug 25, 2016 at 12:29 PM, Conway Bennett <
captainconwaybenn...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I'd read the black mountain cycles article on the topic.  Also I believe I
> read on the Paul site that for neo retros 2-3" yoke height is good enough.
> I didn't read thru all the posts but have you adjusted spring tension yet?
>
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