I studied macroeconomics with Eric, and then we both did graduate studies
on bike geometry.
I can't say that you are all right or wrong, but I can say that on all my
Rivendell bikes and also on my custom, which has a slacker head tube, the
only position I'm comfortable in is with the extended set back Nitto lugged
seat post and the Brooks leather saddles, B17 or B67 pushed fully back.
Only then, do I feel my weight is not all resting on my hands. If I could,
I might still push them further back a bit. With the C17 on my Atlantis,
since the rails are longer, I didn't need to push it all the way to the
end. Without the extended set back on the lugged post, which was the main
reason for me to go from the 58 Betty to the 60 Cheviot, I cannot get as
far back as I need to.
Is that because I'm still quite overweight? Maybe. My weight loss which has
slipped back noticeably this year, allowed me to lean forward more and get
overall more comfortable. I still need that saddle set back quite a bit.
Maybe I'm just weird.
When I figure the root causes and theories behind it all, I'll make a
significant impact on the macroeconomics theory as well. Don't wait
standing up for me to figure it out... :-)
On Wed, Oct 12, 2016 at 8:02 PM, Patrick Moore <bertin...@gmail.com> wrote:
> That actually seems to fit with the bikes and the setups discussed. No one
> in the world is going to spin a 72" gear, let alone a 96" gear (Sturmey
> Archer 3d, 133% of direct) on a DL-1; and the DL-1 has the saddle waaaay
> And this also fits with what I've heard from racers: when you want to
> generate power -- ie, when you are spinning all out -- you are "on the
> rivet" -- ie, sitting on the nose of the saddle, where, back when racers
> rode Brooks Pros or Swallows, there was a rivet attaching the leather to
> the front of the saddle frame. And see the TT and pro road race bikes in
> the post immediately prioer to this one.
> I recall setting up what would have been a very nice 1989 Falcon, toute
> 531C with cool '80s painted Sante group. This was a bike with long stays
> and very short front/center (hard to fit a thumb between 20" tire and down
> I was chasing KOPS (knee over pedal spindle) with short femurs (my mother
> was Filipino) and a liking for full leg extension on the downstroke. I had
> to buy a mtb seatpost to get the saddle high enough, and I had the Turbo or
> Flite so far forward that it would tilt under my weight; I had to use blue
> Loctite on the cradle to hold it level. Of course, this also meant a 140 mm
> stem (6" below saddle).
> I was sure fast spinning on the level -- these were the days when I could
> maintain 20-21 in a 42/17 with a 20 mm tire -- but downhills were scary,
> especially with gusty winds. And, standing on climbs, I'd skip the rear
> wheel when I torqued down. (Grant later advised me to get bar up and back,
> and saddle back and down; and I've been happy ever since.) Now the lowest I
> go on our local 5 mile Tramway climb is 60", and usually 66" -- and I've
> done it in a 76" gear.
> On Wed, Oct 12, 2016 at 7:44 PM, GAJett <guy4j...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> For various reasons my main bikes, over 40 years, have always had the
>> saddle slammed FORWARD. On my AHH with a Nitto seatpost, the Brooks Pro is
>> as far forward as possible. My old Raleigh Competition came with a
>> straight seatpost and separate saddle clamp. In this case I was most
>> comfortable with the saddle clamp FORWARD of the seatpost, instead of being
>> behind. This may have been the result of a too large frame and stem, but I
>> find I like to be forward over the bottom bracket allowing me to spin more
>> easily. Further back I find I'm more of a stomper, which I've never
>> liked. I bike fitter would probably have a field day with my position (if
>> not running away crying!).
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