On Tuesday, August 25, 2020 at 9:45:23 AM UTC-7 aeroperf wrote: > However, a failure mode for Hollowtech is the bottom bracket creaking, and > if you’re going to replace it, it is relatively easy. > If you’re going to take the old one off and replace it with another BB51 > (or SRAM equivalent), all you need is something like a Park Tool BBT-9. > “like” because JTDEAL makes one for less than half that price, etc. > Save and reuse any spacers - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xZNJM1Hi7jc >
Hate to contradict but don't get SRAM BB cups. They are usually GXP which is 24mm/22mm instead of the straight 24mm that Shimano Hollowtech cranks require. In other words, Shimano Hollowtech cranks won't fit SRAM GXP cups, and vice-versa, even though they are visually similar. I second aeroperf's recommendation of taking a closer look at the BB. Hollowtech cranks are easy to disassemble, with a simple 5mm hex wrench, a rubber mallet (or a block of wood), and the special tool TL-FC16 for the pre-load cap (usually comes with the crank and shops will have excess that they may give you for free). Once the crank is out, you can manually feel for bearing roughness and determine if the bearings and thus cups actually need to come out; if they do, then you'll need the BBT-9 tool. Do note that there are plastic sleeves separating the cartridge bearings from the crank spindle for Shimano-branded BB cups; there's no metal-to-metal contact. The plastic sleeves deform slightly to help in alignment, and they are typically what creaks, especially if the bearings are reluctant to spin freely. Good luck! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/712dff18-de45-4abf-8f73-990e9c142340n%40googlegroups.com.
