Laing, I've heard the term "galling" before, but I always thought it meant
threads were somehow corroded, filled with debris, or buggered from cross
threading.
I've also heard the term used to describe my personality...hehe...but that's a
thread for elsewhere.
It's Friday afternoon. Can you tell? Yee-haw!!!
Scott
On Friday, November 18, 2022 at 03:33:52 PM MST, lconley <lcon...@brph.com>
wrote:
The problem could be that the nut and bolt are both stainless steel. Stainless
on stainless can "gall", basically cold welding themselves to each other.
Lubricant / anti-seize on the threads can help prevent this.
Laing
On Friday, November 18, 2022 at 5:12:58 PM UTC-5 Mark C wrote:
Oddly enough, I had the same experience with my Rosco Platypus. The seatpost
bolt was very tight to turn, but worked sort of okay for almost a week through
a few adjustments due to trying different saddles. Then as I was turning onto
my street after a ride, the seatpost slammed down. The bolt still seemed to be
tight, but I finally marked it and could see that it wasn't turning in the nut
even though the bolt turned with difficulty. Then, as I was suspecting and sort
of hoping, the bolt broke. I never found the nut so don't know what was up
there, but it sure seemed like the threads slipped enough to jam. I don't know
how else the post would suddenly slip and the bolt still feel very tight. It
was such a freak thing I didn't mention it, but now I hear of another case.
On Friday, November 18, 2022 at 8:31:11 AM UTC-5 DavidP wrote:
An update on my build experience so far - the derailleur hanger on my frame was
fine, no adjustment to alignment needed. No chasing needed on the hanger
threads either. The bottom bracket threads were also fine and the cups threaded
in smoothly. The most time consuming part so far has been chasing the threads
on the fork crown braze-ons - it took a while to get them cleaned out and
accept a screw smoothly. I've never acquired chasing taps so I've always just
used a steel screw, working it in and out until the threads are clear. I've
seen thread clearing tools made using a sacrificial screw with a slot cut along
the length of the threads to allow material to clear while threading it, which
probably would've made it go faster.
Out of the box, I noticed the seat collar binder bolt was oddly resistant to
turn in either direction; it took an unusual amount of force to get it to
tighten and the post still had play. Then while trying to loosen the bolt it
snapped in the middle of the shaft. After taking the two halves of the bolt
out, I found the nylock nut was bound to the end of the bolt and I was unable
to turn it loose using vice grips and a socket wrench. I replaced the bolt with
a new stainless M6 x 20mm and a standard, non-locking, M6 nut (with some blue
loctite on the bolt). Now everything tightens up (and loosens again) as
expected.
-Dave
On Wednesday, November 16, 2022 at 4:20:47 PM UTC-5 lconley wrote:
I got some Shimano levers for my internal gear bikes from Peter White that have
two position cable attachments for normal or linear brakes. The right side
lever has an integrated thumb shifter for the 8 speed Shimano hub. I don't know
if a non-integrated right lever exists.
The Paul Cross-Lever can also be used with either style of brake by
repositioning the pivot pin.
Laing
On Wednesday, November 16, 2022 at 2:45:05 PM UTC-5 aeroperf wrote:
Thanks, Scott. That helps a lot.
I’m going for Tektro linear pull V-brakes, but no decision on levers yet.
I like the adjustable pull on those levers, though. I hadn’t run into that
before.
I’m not trying to hijack this thread, but “Who is getting a Platypus”? implies
“and how are you going to build it up?”
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