Thanks, but albatross sweep back way too much, putting my hands/wrists in a totally different position. I want my hands out in front and almost straight, and wider than my shoulders.
On Jul 15, 5:14 pm, Johnny Alien <johnnyal...@verizon.net> wrote: > By what you said I would immediately suggest Albatross bars. You > could keep the stem and bar ends and would only need to replace the > brake levers. While they aren't straight I think this would be to > your advantage over a long drive because you will get that upright > position you want but also more positions that a straight mountain > bar. Bullmoose are nice too but would be pricey because you would > have to not only buy a bar stem combo but also levers and thumbies. > That aside even if it was as cheap I would STILL suggest the Albatross > for what you are describing. > > On Jul 15, 6:06 pm, William <tapebu...@gmail.com> wrote: > > > > > My opinion might not be worth much since I always go for drop bars > > first, but here goes. > > > If you use drop bars and find you are always on the tops, most likely > > your fit setup is wrong. You should be able to comfortably ride on > > the hoods, easily get to the drops for speed and power, and sometimes > > visit the tops on a seated climb or to enjoy the view. The counter- > > intuitive part is when somebody says "I'm reaching too far, I'll slide > > my seat forward to fix that". That always makes it worse. Try > > sliding it back, and/or tilting it up. Sheldon Brown has an article > > describing that better than I would ever hope to. If you've done that > > and your mind is made up, give new bars a try. > > > I historically have hated straight bars, flat bars, mountain bars, and > > yet the Rivendell bullmoose bars are fantastic. I emphatically > > encourage you to try them. The Paul thumbies are great, also. You > > might need to change out cables and housing, but perhaps not. You'll > > need new brakelevers and definitely cables and housing for your > > brakes. Leave the bars wide and you may find that you use 4 or 5 > > different hand positions. > > > Best of luck. > > > On Jul 15, 2:47 pm, d2mini <d2creat...@gmail.com> wrote: > > > > Hi, sometimes excessive google searching gives me a headache. :P > > > > I currently have noodle bars on my homer commuter, 42cm width. My > > > commute is about 12.5 miles each way and sometimes they can get a bit > > > uncomfortable. I spend all my time on the tops. > > > > I also have a specialized mountain bike that I hit the trails with > > > during lunch. The trails are pretty insane, all tree roots and stuff. > > > We'll do a good mix of the trails and road, usually about 12 miles > > > total. > > > > Between the two bikes, the flat bars of the mtn bike are drastically > > > more comfortable for me. I think it's two things... the hand/wrist > > > position and the wide hand position, wider than my shoulders. They > > > have a rise and a backward sweep, typical of pretty much every > > > production mtn bike these days. So I'm thinking of fitting that style > > > bar to my homer and wondering if you guys have any advice on making > > > the switch as painless as possible, in terms of what parts to use, > > > what needs to be swapped out, etc. I do really like my bar-end > > > shifters so if I could use those with thumbies or something that would > > > be cool. I would also like to fit a pair of retro looking ergo grips, > > > which i assume only come in mtn bike bar diameters? > > > > All advice appreciated. > > > Thanks! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
