"there's nothing inherent 'bout the 'bo that ought to make anything funky"
Using my Grant decoder ring, I'll guess that "'bout the 'bo" translates to "about the combination". FWIW I bought the OP's Silvers, so any advice about how to make the Silvers work better are pretty much moot. I'm confident the Silvers will work fine for me. I'll be using Tektro R200 levers. The Campy copy ones that get branded Cane Creek. Another aspect that has not come up is the rim. I assume the OP is using Velocity rims like most of us, but there are rims that have pretty subpar braking performance. We've all gotten on a bike (usually wet weather) where the brakes are so useless that it almost feels like the brakes accellerate you. Again, that's usually in wet weather, but the point I'm making is that the rims matter, and they are another constant in the OP's experiments. On Sep 15, 8:13 am, grant <[email protected]> wrote: > The Silver/Tiagra lever combo has been working well. It's hard to > diagnose the problem online, of course, but there's nothing inherent > 'bout the 'bo that ought to make anything funky. There are differences > in feel & flex among brakes, but the differences are by faaaaaaarrrr > most noticeable when your attention is concentrated on the brake--- > when you're not actually riding the bike using it, but when your feet > are on the floor and you're squeezing levers harder then you ever do > during a ride, and looking for flex-action. > > This is a common, and understandably reasonable-seeming way to > compare or test brakes, but it tends to distort differences. > Centerpulls that feel good during use often "fail" the SBVT (static > bike visual test). > > But the Silvers generally pass the SBVT with fairly flying colors. > > If the cable housing and cables are good, and the spring is good (it > is), and it's lubed where it hooks onto the inside of the brake arm > where you can't see it unless you look there, and if there aren't any > kinks, then the action should be plenty OK. Lube the spring where it > hooks onto the arm. > > The hard way isn't too hard, but involves unhooking it, applying > grease or lanolin, and rehooking it. > > The easy way is spraying with W4D, as my granny used to call it, and > it came up in an extraordinary number of conversations, considering > she was in her '80s and '90s when it did. Lube the spring. > > And while you're at it, spray the spring with Boeshield to keep the > rust at bay. If the Boeshield drips down into the W4D area in that > groove, no harm done. > > G -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected]. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
