I once set up a mountain bike (one of those bikes I wish I had kept:
'91 Specialized Stumpjumper Team; wonderful frame) with a 48/38/24
14-34 7 speed drivetrain using a 8 speed era Ultegra (= short cage)
rd. It worked fine, tho' it would grumble climbing onto the 34 when it
was covered in sand. I simply let the chain dangle in the granny: the
Ultegra would hold the chain fine on the two (or so) largest cogs, but
beyond those, the chain would sag on the bottom rung like Jean Robic's
with the Simplex 543 as he tried to keep up with Coppi.

I never had any problems on the few occasions that I shifted into
something smaller than the 28.

On Tue, Oct 23, 2012 at 10:08 PM, Kerry Kunsman <ke...@kunsman.net> wrote:
> That method would not work for me.  My drivetrain is configured for an
> extended range and there is no way even a long cage derailer can wrap enough
> chain to go from big-big to little-little.  In my granny gear I can only use
> the lowest (biggest) 4 cogs until the chain goes slack.  That's OK, since I
> don't use the higher gears in the granny anyway. If I do forget to shift up
> to the middle ring soon enough I'm reminded by a lot of chain noise and
> skipping, but no permanent harm.  If I didn't configure the chain this way
> then I couldn't reach the big-big combo, and as I mentioned in an earlier
> post, the results of not being able to do that could be disastrous.
>
> Kerry Kunsman
> San Diego, CA
>
>
> At 04:14 PM 10/22/2012, Tom M wrote:
>
> Nick Legan, formerly of VeloNews, approaches it differently (
> http://velonews.competitor.com/2011/11/bikes-and-tech/ask-nick/ask-nick-team-tactics-chain-lengths-choosing-a-new-bike-and-more_197660
> ):
>
> Here’s my chain sizing method for a road bike (with entirely compatible
> gearing and derailleurs). I recommend sizing your chain using the largest
> cogset you intend to ride.
>
> -Run the chain through the rear derailleur, on the smallest cog and on the
> small chainring. Pull it to where the chain won’t touch the pulley cage of
> the rear derailleur, keeping it as long as possible.
>
> -If you’re cautious, mark the pivot that you intend to cut with a Sharpie,
> then run the chain (still through the derailleur) over the biggest cog and
> big chainring. You should have plenty of slack.
>
> On Saturday, October 20, 2012 3:17:47 AM UTC-4, rw1911 wrote:
> I've always found the Park Tool site to be useful...
>
> http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/chain-length-sizing
>
>
>
> On Oct 19, 5:24 pm, PATRICK MOORE <bertin...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> I just put a new Sachs P 48 (? Cheap, 8 speed, NIB) on the Fargo and
>> found that it is fully two links shorter than the 9 sp chain it
>> replaced. It will cover the Big/Big combo (46/34 -- note that the 34
>> is in the #7 position) without grumbling but the cage is angled
>> considerably forward. The next-to-biggest cog is a 28, I think, and it
>> handles that fine.
>>
>> No chain suck on todays mixed dirt/pavement 26 mile ride, so perhaps
>> the added tension is helping keep things in place?
>>
>> At any rate, given the above -- and the fact that I never use the
>> 46/34 anyway; I do use the 46/28 occasionally -- any reason to think
>> that I ought to add more links?
>>
>> --
>> Vote early, vote often, vote Rhinoceros! http://tinyurl.com/d7muj2t
>>
>> -------------------------
>> Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM, USA
>> For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRWhttp://
>> resumespecialties.com/index.html
>> -------------------------
>
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-- 
Vote early, vote often, vote Rhinoceros!
http://tinyurl.com/d7muj2t

-------------------------
Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM, USA
For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
-------------------------

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