I too have no interest in riding a randeneur, but if I did I am quite 
certain that either my Rambouillet or Saluki would be great choices, and I 
am pretty sure Jan would agree with that statement.  GP doesn't go out of 
his way to design for a large front end load but both of these bikes handle 
my Acorn Randeneur Bag just fine.  I don't think Jan intends to dis very 
good bikes, but he is in pursuit of the best, and that is a very worthwhile 
goal.

My life experience has taught me that in virtually everything the price 
performance curve gets very steep at the top.  There's nothing wrong with 
buying at the top of the curve if you can afford it, but know that at some 
point each additional dollar spent brings less and less benefit.  If I 
spend $250 for a pair of Paul's brakes I can be sure they will work great 
and last a lifetime.  What more will I get for $400?  Esthetics, a few 
grams of weight saving, maybe some ever so slight improvement in modulation?

Time to go riding.
Michael



On Wednesday, May 8, 2013 11:03:19 AM UTC-4, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
> On Wed, 2013-05-08 at 07:39 -0700, Michael wrote: 
> > What actually is a Randonneur frame? 
>
> > Meaning, what is it about its geometry and materials that makes it more 
> suited to this activity over other traditionally styled road bikes - 
> fenderability and tire width and ad- ons capability excluded? 
>
> Think about the mission.   
>
> You need a bike that's comfortable for long distance riding, that won't 
> fatigue you because it rides roughly.  You can expect that the rider is 
> going to be tired and inattentive at some point (inevitable if you're 
> riding through the night) so you can't tolerate hair-trigger handling 
> that will get away from you if you're slow and inattentive. 
>
> You can expect to start at 7 am and, for the longer rides, ride through 
> the heat of the day, past sundown, and into the chill of night.  In some 
> places, that can mean as much as a 25-30 degree temperature range.  You 
> can't do that with a pair of arm warmers and leg warmers that you can 
> stick in a jersey pocket, so you're going to have to be able to carry 
> the clothing you needed when it was cold during the heat of the day. 
> "More than you can stick in a jersey pocket" means you're going to have 
> to carry bags of some kind.  The more accessible those bags are when 
> you're riding (so you don't have to stop and park the bike to put on a 
> pair of sun glasses, for example) the better. 
>
> On the longer rides you will have to ride at night.  That means you'll 
> need a lighting system.  The really long rides will outlast the range of 
> battery-operated systems, so either you'll need to replace batteries or 
> will have to rely on bicycle-powered systems that don't need batteries. 
>
> Randonneuring is a spring-time sport, and in most areas of the country 
> spring is a rainy season.  You can't skip out on a ride because it 
> rains, so the bike is going to have to go in bad weather.  The worst 
> part about riding in the rain is getting chilled because you're wet, and 
> to deal with that you'll not only need suitable rain clothing, you also 
> should find a way to keep the worst of it, spray from the road, off you. 
> That means you'll need to mount fenders, and that in turn means the bike 
> should have the room to fit them and the attachment points to fit them. 
>
> All that said, it's a sport that is run against a time limit.  Time 
> allowed is based on distance, with no consideration for terrain.  Go too 
> slow and you won't finish in time.  Also, the rides are typically in 
> mountainous country, so the bike is going to have to be set up so you 
> can climb long, steep hills. 
>
> Basically, any bike that can meet those functional requirements will do. 
> Many bikes can't meet them all but can do some, and often compromises 
> will be made.  In fact, the rules used to mandate fenders but since so 
> few bicycles made recently can actually fit fenders, they relaxed the 
> rules to make them optional.  Some people do without them.   
>
>
>
>

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