I'm running a Velo Orange Grand Cru 50.4BCD crankset with a single chainring 
(http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/components/cranksets/grand-cru-50-4bcd-crankset-mkii.html)
 on my Quickbeam, and I'm at a loss to see how it would work if there was a 
derailleur in the mix. Even an old-style Campy Record "no lip" front mech 
wouldn't fit in the very small gap between the chain and the crankarm.

Mine is the first model, so perhaps they've addressed this issue in the "MK II" 
version.

--Eric Norris
campyonly...@me.com
www.campyonly.com
campyonlyguy.blogspot.com

On Jun 3, 2013, at 3:06 PM, PATRICK MOORE <bertin...@gmail.com> wrote:

> The test case for such a narrow gap is the old TA Pro 5 Vis -- I hear that 
> the new ones have a wider gap. I have an old one on the Ram and use an old 
> 7400 Dura Ace FD, which works fine. The downside, such as it is, is that, at 
> least with the small gap on the TA, it requires great precision in fd 
> adjustment to ensure, together, proper angle, proper height, and proper 
> throw, and, at least for me, I reached this precision only through much 
> experiment. Installing an old early '90s XT drivetrain, or an old Stronglight 
> 99 with any '80s or '90s road derailleur, on the contrary, was always 
> perfectly easy by comparison.
> 
> On Mon, Jun 3, 2013 at 2:25 PM, Jeremy Till <jeremy.t...@gmail.com> wrote:
> It's my understanding that modern front derailleurs have relatively wide 
> cages to allow for a greater range of chain angles without rubbing the chain, 
> which leads to clearance issues with older, narrow-Q cranks.  Perhaps using a 
> vintage derailleur of some kind might help?
> 
> -jeremy
> 
> 
> On Monday, June 3, 2013 11:45:22 AM UTC-7, Michael Hechmer wrote:
> My new Saluki came with a classy, classic Specialized crank.  But I kept 
> hearing a little clicking noise when in the big ring.  Eventually I figured 
> out that the crank arm was just grazing the edge of the (Campy Triple) FD.  
> Adjusting it made it graze the chain. I went back and forth with this a 
> couple of times.  Stared at it and considered raising the FD a couple of mm.  
> Then I measured the difference between the tooth and the inside of the arm - 
> 8.5mm.  Raising the FD should align it next to a thinner part of the arm but 
> would also degrade shifting. 
> 
> I went around the shop measuring all the cranks on my and my wives bikes.  
> Here's what I got:
> 
> Shimano 600 -10mm
> Alpina 11.5
> Ultegra 11.5
> White VBC - 15mm
> DaVinci - 15mm
> 
> Any suggestions, short of grinding the back of the arm?
> 
> michael
> 
> 
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> 
> http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
> patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com
> 
> Albuquerque, NM
> 
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