I'm not in the market for a single speed, but if I had a single speed, it 
would likely have fenders.  If it had fenders, it would likely have correct 
or close to correct fender line.  As such it would be impossible to remove 
the rear wheel either rearward with track-like dropouts or forward with 
horizontal road type dropouts.  

So, if it were me, I would simply run a good, MUSA rear hub that is bolted 
on with bolts, not nutted on with nuts.  The offering from Phil and Paul 
and White Industries and Chris King all have these allen bolts.  Remove the 
two allen bolts entirely and the wheel drops out of the drop out.  No more 
problem.  You can have perfect fender line, and can remove your rear wheel 
without deflating it.  It will add between 30 and 60 seconds to the total 
amount of time it takes to fix your flat.   

On Monday, November 25, 2013 10:08:08 AM UTC-8, Philip Williamson wrote:
>
> I find fat tires (32mm) run into the chainstay bridge on my other fixed 
> gear, so I prefer the track ends.
> I had SKS fenders with the QRs on the rear as well as the fork. To change 
> the wheel, I just popped the rear stays out of the quick releases to free 
> up the fenders. 
>
> Philip
> www.biketinker.com<http://www.google.com/url?q=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.biketinker.com&sa=D&sntz=1&usg=AFQjCNHQ7rECiOZi3g57gDuuurKPduxuag>
>  
>
> On Monday, November 25, 2013 8:05:42 AM UTC-8, Pudge wrote:
>>
>>  One solution for the tire removal issue is to use flat wooden fenders, 
>> which bend very easily outward away from the tire, allowing easy removal.  
>> Of course, there are always trade-offs – such fenders aren’t as functional 
>> as a good plastic or metal curved fender, but in non-downpours, and with a 
>> mudflap, they’re not bad.
>>
>>  
>>  
>>
>>

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