Segwaying (tm) along this thread, rather than starting a new one, I just
came back from a relatively major grocery and mail run, using the '03
Converted Curt  Fixed. 17/19 Dingle with 48 t ring and almost-25" tires
(559X1.35" Kojaks). The cruising 48/17 gives me about a 70" gear (taking
into account the "almost") while the 19 gives me a roughly 63" gear.

I installed the Dingle last summer but never used the 19 until very
recently, and I used it again today as the load was heavier (38 lb per my
cheap hanging scale, not legal for trade -- I scrupulously enter these
figures into my notebook in a tight, cramped hand): was heavier, I say,
than I normally carry on the '03, (and about 8 lb more than its preferred
maximum. While sitting you have to keep the front wheel under control at
low speeds; standing, the rear will wag for a second or two until it syncs
with your cadence. The Ram handles 40lb+ loads much better).

(I daresay a Long Haul Trucker or good Porteur would handle even heavier
loads even better, but the point of the Ram and the Curt is that they are
lightish, fast road bikes that handle wonderfully unladen, and that yet
handle a useful range of rear weight acceptably.)

Anyway, I am very pleased to find that the 19, chosen instead of the (17/)
20 because my stay/dropout/preferred ring/preferred cog combos do not
comfortably accept a 3 tooth spread, gives a low gear that is really better
for this sort of loaded riding than the 60" from a 20. Yes, I do like a
very tight spread. It would be nice to have one more lower gear, say a 55"
or so, for very long climbs, but then a S3X, despite its 2 lb weight, looks
better. I may yet build a second rear wheel around one of these -- tho'
I've also thought of one of the new kickbacks.

Regarding the Dingle in particular: I've certainly found that swapping
cogs, even with panniers attached, is far, far easier with the Dingle than
with a flip-flop system, particularly when your panniers are loaded and you
are holding up a bike, of which the front wheel is flopping all over the
place, with your head as you manipulate the chain. A sturdy, steel,
inside-cam QR is essential, of course. (I use one of those old XTs with the
rubber lever cover.)

Segway again: the pathology of insisting on fixed in varying terrain, wind,
and load conditions, is an odd and perverse one, but one that I happen to
love a great deal, the main reason being the challenge of *not* having
"enough" gears, closely spaced or otherwise. The fun comes from forcing
yourself to adapt -- in effort, in pedaling style, in strategy, in
anticipation or planning (not "planing") -- to the conditions instead of
shifting or coasting to overcome them. I tend to ride the 2X7 Ram in the
(44X) 16-17-18 "95% of the time" (that's a quantitative metaphor and not a
measurement) and in the 44X17 = 70" 85-90% of the time. On the long hills
that riding fixed I stand and struggle on, or bail on and walk, I will use
lower ones, even bailing to the 30 (but never, ever using the 30X23
granny!) and very occasionally, on a slope with a tailwind, I'll get to the
14 t small (85"), but those occasions are rare.

But for a non-pavement-dedicated all rounder, I think Philip's (and the
QB's) system is very good, since in effect you have a road and a lower dirt
range. I'm tempted to use a half link and find the Fargo's optimum ss total
tooth mix, and try to find a drivetrain that gives me a ~65"/55" on- and
off-road range (or ~65/47).


On Tue, Nov 26, 2013 at 1:46 PM, Philip Williamson <
[email protected]> wrote:

> Yes to both of you; I did mean change cog and ring together for a bigger
> gear change overall. And yes, embiggening the cog by one tooth will make
> about twice the gearing change as embiggening the ring by one tooth.
> Sorry if I wasn't clear.
>
> Philip
>

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