Thanks for all the input.
I tried the magic gear thing and couldn't make it work. Looking at the 
calculator, I think I now understand why. It shows my 40/16 gear as a 
perfect match with a 100 link chain and the Sam's 45.5 cm chain stays, as 
long as there is zero (0) chain stretch. It's way off with just 0.05 inches 
of stretch over 12 inches of chain.

On Monday, February 10, 2014 7:18:10 PM UTC+2, Jeremy Till wrote:
>
> Measuring chainline on the rear cog can be tricky.  My preferred method is 
> to put a straight edge of some kind across the locknut on the driveside and 
> measure the distance between the straight edge and the centerline of the 
> cog.  Then, chainline=(Over locknut spacing of the rear hub)/2 minus 
> (distance between locknut and cog centerline)
>
> Another reason that once I made the commitment that I enjoy SS/fixed 
> riding, I've vastly preferred to use dedicated fixed or SS hubs which have 
> a standardized chainline (usually 42mm for track hubs, 52mm for SS MTB 
> hubs).  It's much easier to measure and dial in chainline at the front with 
> the proper crank/chainring/BB spindle length combination than at the rear.  
>
> On Monday, February 10, 2014 1:15:20 AM UTC-8, Jay in Tel Aviv wrote:
>>
>> I've got my Sam Hillborne set up as single speed at the moment, using a 
>> track cog, spaced and rear derailler.
>> The setup looks straight enough to my eye, but it does rattle a bit. I'm 
>> wondering if I've got the chain line a bit off or maybe the spacers are no 
>> sufficiently tight.
>> How does one go about measuring chain line? I can't see a simple way to 
>> get an accurate measurement with a ruler, what with all those pesky pieces 
>> of metal in the way.
>>  
>> If it helps, I'm running a Sugino triple up front with 40/26/bashguard, 
>> 113 mm BB and a shimano 9 speed cassete hub. I use the 40T chainring pretty 
>> much exclusively, as there is no FD installed.
>>  
>> Thanks,
>> Jay
>>
>

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