If you're going to have a separate battery pack, you'll need to connect the servo's -ve (black) wire to BOTH the reciever and other battery pack. Otherwise your data signal is meaningless, and becomes relative to the new battery pack. If the new battery pack's definition of 0V is not the same as the one powering the reciever, then you tend to end up with no signal, or a broken servo.
Incidentally, I have a similar issue in my challenger where the turret rotate and/or elevate servos will cause a "brown out" reset on the C6C. It was easy enough to deal with in my case - change the mechanism. Hope that helps. Chris Malton On 12/06/2009 08:54, Mike Mangus wrote: > I think you are on the right track with the big 1/4 scale servo > drawing enough current to cause the receiver to reset. We had a similar > problem in the model warship world where a Spectrum DX radio kept > loosing signal when the ship's pump was turned on (increased amp load). > The fix was to run a separate battery just for the receiver instead of > using the ship's ESC for receiver power. In your case, I would try using > a separate battery for the servo itself. > > You can run a servo on its own power and not from the receiver. > Disconnect the power and negative wires from the servo connector and > connect them directly to another power source (add a switch if you like > to turn it on/off). Leave the servo signal wire in the servo connector > and plug back into the receiver. > > The big 30% - 50% scale model aircraft guys use a power bus supply unit > to supply power to those big power hungry servos. Their recievers have > seperate dedicated battery packs. > > Mike > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Derek Engelhaupt <[email protected]> > *To:* [email protected] > *Sent:* Friday, June 12, 2009 4:31:29 PM > *Subject:* [TANKS] Strange issues..... > > Well, tonight I was cleaning up the wiring in the Sturmtiger and getting > her ready for the weekend Tank Expo at Ft. Snelling. Ran into some > really strange issues. The first being that when I would fire the > marker, my traverse motor would jump. Only in one direction. The > switches were mounted right next to each other and installed so that I > could kill the 12V power in one fell swoop. That switch fed the trigger > switch. I designed it that way so I could disable the marker, but still > use the turret traverse. To fix that problem, I remounted the traverse > switch on the other side of the tank and put as much separation between > the wires as I could. I even ran two separate leads from the secondary > 12V battery I installed to run the Vantec RET411 speed controller > attached to the traverse motor and the 12V door lock actuator thinking I > was getting an induced current in the traverse motor lead when the > marker was triggered. But none of that stuff fixed the problem. After > messing with that for quite sometime I said to myself, I'll fix it > later. I then reconnected the speed controllers to go for a test drive. > Hmmm....only one track moving. Found that one of my cables wasn't > seated. I thought, problem solved. Then I got no response from either > speed controller and they were blinking like they had no signal. I > looked at the IMX track mixer and the light was off. I thought it was > toast until I moved the traverse and elevation on the gun and it sprung > to life. Then I moved the elevation again and it died again. Long story > short, it looks like the CS80 1/4 scale servo is drawing so much power > that it's taking it away from the mixer. When I unplug the CS80, all is > well. Plug it back in and the problems come back. I then put fresher > batteries in it and it made the situation better. I'm thinking that I > need fresh batteries to resolve the issue completely. With the fresher > batteries, the traverse motor jumping occurances lessened when I > triggered the marker. My volt meter shows the batteries putting out > 6.2V. I guess my question would be, has anyone used a larger battery > pack for their reciever when using these large 1/4 scale servos? I know > I can't increase the voltage without blowing the reciever, but what > about mounting another 6V pack in parallel to accomidate the current > draw? I guess another option would be to get a 12V to 6V regulator to > run the reciever. Any thoughts? I'm using a Spektrum DX6 radio with > BR6000 reciever. > > Derek > T065 > > > > > > --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~----------~----~----~----~------~----~------~--~---
