One of your biggest problems and price(hobby shop prices) problems too is you are going to require two sets of steering systems perfectly aligned. Another problem is going to be the gearboxes you will need at least 3-4 of them with slip traction control. By the time you finish building your striker most of the parts will be no longer in production as newer models come available as well as unless you are merciless with writing every part and part number down you are going to struggle to remember the part information when it breaks. You will bring it into the hobby shop to repair and no one will know what part you have in your hand. If I had to do it again I make my build as big as a 1/6 tank and then fabricate all the parts except for the wheels.
Icarus Zulu On Nov 24, 10:21 pm, whitney james <[email protected]> wrote: > ... > > Gregory, > Yea, I've been worried about that. From what I've been able to read, the > Traxxas Revo 3.3 steering linkage is about the beefiest one can find in the > RC world. I'm planning a trip to the local hobby shop to take a look and see > just how tough they appear. > If they look good, I can pat myself on the head, cause buying those via Evil > bay will likely be the cheapest route. If not, I'll just have to go with > threaded rod, and track down some ball links. > I'd rather avoid the milling/custom process as much as possible, as that can > add up to a lot of $$ in not a lot of time. > > Thanks! > > Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2009 09:02:20 +1300 > Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: Complete Newbie... > From: [email protected] > To: [email protected] > > One of the main problems you would probably find with ACs is the steering > linkage, as they are the most fragile bit. If possable I would suggest you > get them milled out of some sort of metal. > > -Gregory > > On Wed, Nov 25, 2009 at 8:42 AM, Spitbraaicatering <[email protected]> wrote: > > Now you know how to scale it look at lawn mower repair companies. You ought > to find the right scale wheel at an afordable price.... I started building > the rooikat 76mm however after dropping $500 and still was only 1/3 of the > chasis cost... Too many custom parts to machine I decided to build a tank... > Less parts and less hassels. > > Icarus Zulu > > Sent from my iPhone > On 24 Nov 2009, at 19:56, whitney james <[email protected]> wrote: > > I can probably help you with that one: > You're probably thinking of the Michelin XML. > > "4. Tire Tread: XML > > Global Part Number (CAI): 110510 > > Description: 395/85 R20 XML TL 161G > > Rim Diameter: 20 inches (50.8 cm) > > Comments: Principally used on Stryker Infantry Carrier Vehicle" > > As per:http://www.faqs.org/rulings/rulings2003NYJ81184.html > > You've got a metric size there, so converting it to inches will give you (on > the full size thing anyway): > -20 inch rim > -46.4 inches overall diameter > -15.6 inch width. > > Hopes that helps! > Either way, glad to hear I'm not the only Loony-Toon here! > > Maybe we'll have to swap ideas. > > > > > > > Date: Tue, 24 Nov 2009 09:38:19 -0800 > > Subject: [TANKS] Re: Complete Newbie... > > From: [email protected] > > To: [email protected] > > > Hi James, I have been wanting to build a stryker for a while, so don't > > think your all alone in wanting to build a wheeled vehicle. > > So tell me guys, does anyone know what the scale size of a stryker > > tire would be? I can only find the profile size etc which means > > nothing to me as it is a ratio of this to that yada yada, just tell me > > how many inches, centimeters, millimeters, it is and I'm good to > > figure the rest out, but no where can I find out. ANY help would be > > greatly appreciated except p280/r16/..... you know what I mean I may > > have to get medieval on you behind. > > Keep us updated James. > > Greg > > > On Nov 24, 9:06 am, whitney james <[email protected]> wrote: > > > Hey all! > > > > Been a lurker here for more years than my pride would allow me to admit, > > > but > > > I'm finally taking the plunge and beginning a build. > > > > To start off with, the site is about tanks. That much is obvious. > > > However, I’ve > > > seen a couple armored cars there, and I think that is where my interest > > > lies. And > > > so, I present the B1 Centuaro. It’s got a nice bulky body to fit all those > > > moving bit’s that make it do cool things, as well as nice sloped armor > > > that > > > will (in theory anyway) make up for a relatively weak armor rating (25mm > > > up front: upgradable to 30mm). However, it does come with a 105mm main > > > gun, so that puts us into Tank Destroyer territory. (evil little grin) > > > > http://www.sbmodels.net/images/New_From/ModelVictoria/MV002/images/MV... > > > > Yup: it’s wheeled. I don’t know why, but in a place beyond > > > all reason, I find a wheeled vehicle vastly easier to engineer than a > > > tracked > > > one. I know: I have issues. Still, what do you do? > > > > Anyway. The site has made the comment that RC car parts > > > simply do not stand up to the strains demanded of them in this sport. > > > Well, > > > being a complete idiot, I threw that advice out in favor of RC parts. > > > > My basic plan is to scrounge Evil-Bay and dredge up some > > > Nitro RC monstertruck parts, and build my driveline/suspension system from > > > that. > > > > The vast bulk will be taken from the Traxxas company, as > > > they seems of a fairly reputable sort, and their T-Maxx and Revo trucks > > > are > > > both everywhere, and as any number of UTube videos will document, are > > > nearly indestructible. > > > I figure anything designed to leap 12 feet in the air, fly 25 horizontal > > > feet, > > > land on it’s head, and keep going is probably fairly tough. Additionally, > > > parts > > > can be had for fairly cheap, so there you go. > > > > As the B1 has 4 sets of wheels, I’ll need parts from 2 RC > > > monster trucks. I considered merely buying two of them, stripping what I > > > need > > > and Craigslisting/E-baying the rest of the bits off, but at ~$200 a pop, > > > that > > > was a bit too much of an initial investment. I’m on a bit of a budget > > > here, as > > > my better (and wiser) half has authorized around $20 a month to be put > > > into > > > this thing so that option was out. As mentioned, I’ve taken the plunge and > > > purchased (won) 3 bulkheads (mounts for the swing arms: 2 rear, and 1 > > > front), > > > some swing arm pins (enough for 2 axles), and (hopefully) a set of A-Arms > > > (2 > > > axles worth). Assuming I am correct: that their description of a > > > “complete set” > > > of A-Arms included 4 upper, and 4 lower, I will be in possession of the > > > above > > > mentioned pieces for the grand total of $35.85. This is about half my > > > suspension > > > system. > > > > “How to get the power to the wheels?” you might ask. Again, > > > the commercial market comes to the rescue. I’ve seen differentials for the > > > Traxxas Revo 3.3 going for around $10 plus shipping. Considering it costs > > > 6 > > > times that to build one from your local hobby shop, that’s on the menu > > > for next > > > month. > > > > In total, I’ll need 6 (to be spread over a couple months, > > > obviously): 2 for the front and rear most differentials, and 4 to be > > > cannibalized > > > into 2 through differentials for the two middle axles. > > > > Now: Most of the tanks I’ve seen built on the website (Yes, > > > I’ve looked through every page of every single one) don’t seem to take > > > weight > > > into account: building with materials such as solid plywood and steel. > > > Note: I > > > said “most”. (little winky emoticon) > > > > My goal will be to build as lightly as possible: hence the > > > commercial nylon parts (and my lack of fabrication skills…). My > > > assumption is (and > > > yes: this may end up making an a** out of me) is that the lighter the > > > vehicle, > > > the less power will be required to move it. Also, as I only will have > > > need of 1 > > > power source… well, my logic falls apart there, but it seems like those > > > two > > > things should be complimentary. Less power requirements means less > > > battery requirements > > > means less weight means less power requirements means less battery… you > > > get the > > > idea. > > > > As a power source (remember, we’re going for CHEAP quality here) > > > I’m planning on the tried and true drill motor setup. I’ve seen them > > > tried on > > > tanks, but the complains are that they just don’t have the power. An > > > issue I > > > hope to address with light weight. My plan is to find a trashed 18~24 volt > > > variable speed cordless drill (preferably with a 2 speed planetary > > > transmission) > > > at some pawn shop or other place where such things are found. This way, I > > > buy a > > > second cheap replacement trigger, a couple light springs, and I’ll have a > > > reversible, > > > variable speed vehicle. This idea currently exists only as an idea in my > > > head, > > > so we’ll see how it works out in practice. Fortunately, many have said I > > > have a > > > very imaginative mind, so maybe I haven’t botched everything before it’s > > > even > > > begun. J > > > > Regardless, that’s the plan anyway: what do you all think? > > > > (as to criticisms: please refrain from throwing overly heavy > > > or sharp and point objects as I have a rather soft head.) > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > > Bing brings you maps, menus, and reviews organized in one > > > place.http://www.bing.com/search?q=restaurants&form=MFESRP&publ=WLHMTAG&cre... > > > -- > > You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. > > To post a message, send email to [email protected] > > To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] > > Visit the group athttp://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat > > Bing brings you maps, menus, and reviews organized in one place. 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