Icarus: First prices: I couldn't agree more. I've spend plenty of time on the phone with hobby shop owners, and almost put a bullet in my own brain after hearing their prices. So, we went to the internet. (huge toothy grin). For my bulkheads, I paid $.95 a pair (3 of the 4 I need) compared to around $10 at any hobby shop. the bulk of the cost was shipping and the A arms (I'm kicking myself for paying $20 for a set of 4 = half of the number I need. But, I was over excited as this was my first parts purchase, and the combined shipping tempted me beyond what I could bear...) The other set of 4 can be bought for around $10. Again, Evil Bay comes to the rescue. Differentials: yup, they'd be a nightmare and a half to build. To piece them together from hobby supplies would be a bankrupt-er right there. But... as mentioned, I can get a complete Revo diff for around $10. That's input shaft, internal open diff gears, output shafts and case. Buy 6, cannibalize 4 into two for through diffs, (I've already looked at the exploded views, schematics, and read up on people who've done it; and it is possible), and for $60, I've got 4 open differentials (can be locked with hot glue or JB weld on the spider gears) two of which are through diffs, that already plug right in with my drive shafts ($40 for the whole set).
Parts availability/remembering... Yea... a bit of a kicker there. So... I've decided to limit the number of vehicle models I take parts from (at the moment, I'm up to 2, they're both from the same very reputable company, and many of their parts are interchangable). The T-Maxx has been in production for years, is still a bench mark setter, and top seller truck in the market: they're not going anywhere any time soon. The Revo is a ground breaker, relatively new, and is both in massive demand and very widely available. I should be good for at least the next 5~6 years. By then, I should be ready to upgrade whole drive line sections anyway, and may move to custom fabrication once I have (1) a better idea of what my vehicle demands are, and (2) a better idea of what works/doesn't work. Steering... Bunny Boogers! You had to bring that up! Yea... Still an issue on that. I've been looking at some other ideas for steering than servos. Running a servo would be the easiest, but then you need to worry about servo protectors, syncing them (if using two), etc. Plus, they're expensive,and a custom servo protector takes up a LOT of room as well as it a bit wobbly (yup, I've looked up AC004). I'm thinking about either doing a worm gear setup, or doing a threaded shaft/geared nut setup. However, at my current rate of progress, it'll be a while before I need to worry about it. > Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2009 02:54:18 -0800 > Subject: [TANKS] Re: Complete Newbie... > From: [email protected] > To: [email protected] > > One of your biggest problems and price(hobby shop prices) problems too > is you are going to require two sets of steering systems perfectly > aligned. Another problem is going to be the gearboxes you will need at > least 3-4 of them with slip traction control. By the time you finish > building your striker most of the parts will be no longer in > production as newer models come available as well as unless you are > merciless with writing every part and part number down you are going > to struggle to remember the part information when it breaks. You will > bring it into the hobby shop to repair and no one will know what part > you have in your hand. If I had to do it again I make my build as big > as a 1/6 tank and then fabricate all the parts except for the wheels. > > Icarus Zulu > > > On Nov 24, 10:21 pm, whitney james <[email protected]> wrote: > > ... > > > > Gregory, > > Yea, I've been worried about that. From what I've been able to read, the > > Traxxas Revo 3.3 steering linkage is about the beefiest one can find in the > > RC world. I'm planning a trip to the local hobby shop to take a look and > > see just how tough they appear. > > If they look good, I can pat myself on the head, cause buying those via > > Evil bay will likely be the cheapest route. If not, I'll just have to go > > with threaded rod, and track down some ball links. > > I'd rather avoid the milling/custom process as much as possible, as that > > can add up to a lot of $$ in not a lot of time. > > > > Thanks! > > > > Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2009 09:02:20 +1300 > > Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: Complete Newbie... > > From: [email protected] > > To: [email protected] > > > > One of the main problems you would probably find with ACs is the steering > > linkage, as they are the most fragile bit. If possable I would suggest you > > get them milled out of some sort of metal. > > > > -Gregory > > > > On Wed, Nov 25, 2009 at 8:42 AM, Spitbraaicatering <[email protected]> > > wrote: > > > > Now you know how to scale it look at lawn mower repair companies. You ought > > to find the right scale wheel at an afordable price.... I started building > > the rooikat 76mm however after dropping $500 and still was only 1/3 of the > > chasis cost... Too many custom parts to machine I decided to build a > > tank... Less parts and less hassels. > > > > Icarus Zulu > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > On 24 Nov 2009, at 19:56, whitney james <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > I can probably help you with that one: > > You're probably thinking of the Michelin XML. > > > > "4. Tire Tread: XML > > > > Global Part Number (CAI): 110510 > > > > Description: 395/85 R20 XML TL 161G > > > > Rim Diameter: 20 inches (50.8 cm) > > > > Comments: Principally used on Stryker Infantry Carrier Vehicle" > > > > As per:http://www.faqs.org/rulings/rulings2003NYJ81184.html > > > > You've got a metric size there, so converting it to inches will give you > > (on the full size thing anyway): > > -20 inch rim > > -46.4 inches overall diameter > > -15.6 inch width. > > > > Hopes that helps! > > Either way, glad to hear I'm not the only Loony-Toon here! > > > > Maybe we'll have to swap ideas. > > > > > > > > > > > > > Date: Tue, 24 Nov 2009 09:38:19 -0800 > > > Subject: [TANKS] Re: Complete Newbie... > > > From: [email protected] > > > To: [email protected] > > > > > Hi James, I have been wanting to build a stryker for a while, so don't > > > think your all alone in wanting to build a wheeled vehicle. > > > So tell me guys, does anyone know what the scale size of a stryker > > > tire would be? I can only find the profile size etc which means > > > nothing to me as it is a ratio of this to that yada yada, just tell me > > > how many inches, centimeters, millimeters, it is and I'm good to > > > figure the rest out, but no where can I find out. ANY help would be > > > greatly appreciated except p280/r16/..... you know what I mean I may > > > have to get medieval on you behind. > > > Keep us updated James. > > > Greg > > > > > On Nov 24, 9:06 am, whitney james <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > Hey all! > > > > > > Been a lurker here for more years than my pride would allow me to > > > > admit, but > > > > I'm finally taking the plunge and beginning a build. > > > > > > To start off with, the site is about tanks. That much is obvious. > > > > However, I’ve > > > > seen a couple armored cars there, and I think that is where my interest > > > > lies. And > > > > so, I present the B1 Centuaro. It’s got a nice bulky body to fit all > > > > those > > > > moving bit’s that make it do cool things, as well as nice sloped armor > > > > that > > > > will (in theory anyway) make up for a relatively weak armor rating > > > > (25mm up front: upgradable to 30mm). However, it does come with a 105mm > > > > main gun, so that puts us into Tank Destroyer territory. (evil little > > > > grin) > > > > > > > > > > http://www.sbmodels.net/images/New_From/ModelVictoria/MV002/images/MV... > > > > > > Yup: it’s wheeled. I don’t know why, but in a place beyond > > > > all reason, I find a wheeled vehicle vastly easier to engineer than a > > > > tracked > > > > one. I know: I have issues. Still, what do you do? > > > > > > Anyway. The site has made the comment that RC car parts > > > > simply do not stand up to the strains demanded of them in this sport. > > > > Well, > > > > being a complete idiot, I threw that advice out in favor of RC parts. > > > > > > My basic plan is to scrounge Evil-Bay and dredge up some > > > > Nitro RC monstertruck parts, and build my driveline/suspension system > > > > from > > > > that. > > > > > > The vast bulk will be taken from the Traxxas company, as > > > > they seems of a fairly reputable sort, and their T-Maxx and Revo trucks > > > > are > > > > both everywhere, and as any number of UTube videos will document, are > > > > nearly indestructible. > > > > I figure anything designed to leap 12 feet in the air, fly 25 > > > > horizontal feet, > > > > land on it’s head, and keep going is probably fairly tough. > > > > Additionally, parts > > > > can be had for fairly cheap, so there you go. > > > > > > As the B1 has 4 sets of wheels, I’ll need parts from 2 RC > > > > monster trucks. I considered merely buying two of them, stripping what > > > > I need > > > > and Craigslisting/E-baying the rest of the bits off, but at ~$200 a > > > > pop, that > > > > was a bit too much of an initial investment. I’m on a bit of a budget > > > > here, as > > > > my better (and wiser) half has authorized around $20 a month to be put > > > > into > > > > this thing so that option was out. As mentioned, I’ve taken the plunge > > > > and > > > > purchased (won) 3 bulkheads (mounts for the swing arms: 2 rear, and 1 > > > > front), > > > > some swing arm pins (enough for 2 axles), and (hopefully) a set of > > > > A-Arms (2 > > > > axles worth). Assuming I am correct: that their description of a > > > > “complete set” > > > > of A-Arms included 4 upper, and 4 lower, I will be in possession of the > > > > above > > > > mentioned pieces for the grand total of $35.85. This is about half my > > > > suspension > > > > system. > > > > > > “How to get the power to the wheels?” you might ask. Again, > > > > the commercial market comes to the rescue. I’ve seen differentials for > > > > the > > > > Traxxas Revo 3.3 going for around $10 plus shipping. Considering it > > > > costs 6 > > > > times that to build one from your local hobby shop, that’s on the menu > > > > for next > > > > month. > > > > > > In total, I’ll need 6 (to be spread over a couple months, > > > > obviously): 2 for the front and rear most differentials, and 4 to be > > > > cannibalized > > > > into 2 through differentials for the two middle axles. > > > > > > Now: Most of the tanks I’ve seen built on the website (Yes, > > > > I’ve looked through every page of every single one) don’t seem to take > > > > weight > > > > into account: building with materials such as solid plywood and steel. > > > > Note: I > > > > said “most”. (little winky emoticon) > > > > > > My goal will be to build as lightly as possible: hence the > > > > commercial nylon parts (and my lack of fabrication skills…). My > > > > assumption is (and > > > > yes: this may end up making an a** out of me) is that the lighter the > > > > vehicle, > > > > the less power will be required to move it. Also, as I only will have > > > > need of 1 > > > > power source… well, my logic falls apart there, but it seems like those > > > > two > > > > things should be complimentary. Less power requirements means less > > > > battery requirements > > > > means less weight means less power requirements means less battery… you > > > > get the > > > > idea. > > > > > > As a power source (remember, we’re going for CHEAP quality here) > > > > I’m planning on the tried and true drill motor setup. I’ve seen them > > > > tried on > > > > tanks, but the complains are that they just don’t have the power. An > > > > issue I > > > > hope to address with light weight. My plan is to find a trashed 18~24 > > > > volt > > > > variable speed cordless drill (preferably with a 2 speed planetary > > > > transmission) > > > > at some pawn shop or other place where such things are found. This way, > > > > I buy a > > > > second cheap replacement trigger, a couple light springs, and I’ll have > > > > a reversible, > > > > variable speed vehicle. This idea currently exists only as an idea in > > > > my head, > > > > so we’ll see how it works out in practice. Fortunately, many have said > > > > I have a > > > > very imaginative mind, so maybe I haven’t botched everything before > > > > it’s even > > > > begun. J > > > > > > Regardless, that’s the plan anyway: what do you all think? > > > > > > (as to criticisms: please refrain from throwing overly heavy > > > > or sharp and point objects as I have a rather soft head.) > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > > > Bing brings you maps, menus, and reviews organized in one > > > > place.http://www.bing.com/search?q=restaurants&form=MFESRP&publ=WLHMTAG&cre... > > > > > -- > > > You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. > > > To post a message, send email to [email protected] > > > To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] > > > Visit the group athttp://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat > > > > Bing brings you maps, menus, and reviews organized in one place. Try it now. > > > > -- > > > > You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. > > > > To post a message, send email to [email protected] > > > > To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] > > > > Visit the group athttp://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat > > -- > > > > This message has been scanned for viruses and > > > > dangerous content by Pinpoint Securemail, > > > > and is believed to be clean. > > > > -- > > > > You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. > > > > To post a message, send email to [email protected] > > > > To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] > > > > Visit the group athttp://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat > > > > -- > > > > You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. > > > > To post a message, send email to [email protected] > > > > To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] > > > > Visit the group athttp://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat > > > > > > read more »- Hide quoted text - > > > > - Show quoted text - > > -- > You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. > To post a message, send email to [email protected] > To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] > Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsoft's powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141664/direct/01/ http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141664/direct/01/ -- You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. 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