Hi All A set of MY1016 24 Volt, 350 Watt, 2650 RPM, 19.2 Amp, permanent- magnet motors which look like the M01 motor will cost £74 inc shipping from the US. Is this good? The company is tncscooters in the US. UK suppliers seem thin on the ground but I will continue to search.
Redrawing the 'proposed' plans today I just wasn't happy with the first go. Must be out of practice =D regards Dave On Jan 21, 6:16 pm, "Morgan, John" <[email protected]> wrote: > I am new to this as well, however, scale speed is not a requirement. If you > try to stick to scale speed, you will get your head handed to you in the > field. These are really cool battle bots, so try for the technological > advantage. We are actually getting motors and controllers at a great price. > Many of the US High Schools are getting away from traditional robots and are > doing the Lego challenge. This makes much older robot equipment available > for the asking. > > John > > ________________________________________ > From: [email protected] [[email protected]] On Behalf > Of [email protected] [[email protected]] > Sent: Thursday, January 21, 2010 12:17 PM > To: R/C Tank Combat > Subject: [TANKS] Re: newbie alert! > > Hi Neil > > That's a bummer =( But I understand your point. But it would be > something I could 'upgrade to' If I made or left provision for it. So > fixed suspension for now then. The motors are a good price. Scale > speed, if I have it correct is between 3-5mph for a challenger? I will > need to get my head around gearing ratios etc to get a better > understanding of what would suit. Is there a UK equivalent to the Mo1 > motor? This is getting complicated already =D > > regards > > Dave > > On Jan 21, 4:13 pm, neroc <[email protected]> wrote: > > > To my knowledge no friction drive tank has been made to work on a > > suspended tank . I think the track has to be very tight to the drive > > wheel for reliable enough friction drive .so much so that the > > suspension system would flat out. more so most experienced builders > > simply wouldn't recommend a suspension system in a `first` tank. > > although please do if you wish. > > friction drive does remove a major construction headache : positive > > drive has to be very accurate where the drive sprocket engages the > > track where as friction drive just has to grip. > > > when choosing motors , if you want to stay with 12v a reasonable > > choice would be the geared motors found in To68 and To73 they cost > > just over £30 each +pp from easycads in the UK and are 180W at 12 v . > > they have an final output of 200rpm. This is a little small and a > > little slow but have been proved to just about work , if your happy > > with a slow tank they will be fine. personally Id be looking to double > > all those figures . something like the M1 motors the Americans use > > would be my choice. > > and finally when building your hull , strong is good. > > > Neil R > > > On Jan 20, 7:53 pm, "[email protected]" > > > <[email protected]> wrote: > > > Hi All > > > > Well my Tamiya completely failed to arrive =( So I have been studying > > > the archives and the build pictures for ideas and to get some sort of > > > reference on materials and how strength and lightness of build can be > > > implemented. So my thoughts so far. > > > > Hull/Chassis = The base panel in 1/2"ply. Front rear and sides in > > > 1/4". 1/4" Doublers to beef up corners and where the suspension ends > > > fit in the hull sides. Formers to partition the space and add > > > torsional rigidity to the hull. The formers will be 'holed' to reduce > > > weight. > > > > Top = 4mm ply with 6mm doubler 'ring' for the hole where the turret > > > will sit. > > > > Turret = 6mm Base and the rest in 3mm ply unless I bite the bullet and > > > have ago at a fibreglass molding (possibly) > > > > Wheels = Wood, laminated for simple detail with the possibility of > > > doing an ABS detail molding (possibly) I am going for the friction > > > drive method with the 'belt' type tracks. > > > > Overall I intend to build the 'whole' without detail. If it gets that > > > far and works then detail pieces can be added. > > > > Now I have been trawling for motors ideas but could do with a bit of a > > > steer as in what are you using, where did you get it, are they readily > > > available and this is within the UK please. I am looking for 12V > > > motors and I have found some 12V ones but have no idea as to their > > > physical size but I do know they aren't geared so this is also > > > something that needs considering as space for gearing may be needed > > > and this will have a bearing on the scale of the build and or the > > > internal layout of the hull structure to suit. > > > > carry on sanding! > > > > Dave > > > > On Jan 19, 8:18 pm, "[email protected]" > > > > <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > Now that is a smart idea =D Along similar lines I import PCB patterns > > > > into my circuit design software. Trace over it with the tracks and > > > > then adjust or 'redesign' the circuit layout to suit my needs/ > > > > preferences before getting 'my' version printed for toner transfer. I > > > > have a scanner up in the attic I may dig it out and see what I can do. > > > > > regards > > > > > Dave > > > > > On Jan 19, 8:10 pm, "Morgan, John" <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > > I just scan in the sprues and then scale the scans up in CAD. I can > > > > > then trace them (in CAD) to make a pattern and then adjust it as > > > > > necessary due to materials, size etc. See my Sherman HVSS sprue > > > > > attached. The higher the resolution, the easier it is to scale. > > > > > > Regards, > > > > > > John > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > > > From: [email protected] > > > > > [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of > > > > > [email protected] > > > > > Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 3:04 PM > > > > > To: R/C Tank Combat > > > > > Subject: [TANKS] Re: newbie alert! > > > > > > Thanks for all the info Chaps! > > > > > > I spy 'inexpensive' markers =D An hours running and firing seems > > > > > adequate. I presume that using PWM speed controllers would give a > > > > > significant increase, subject to driving style, in duration? I don't > > > > > think I can afford the PWM method anyway but out of interest...... > > > > > > With reference to 'tweaking' the scale of portions of the build to > > > > > suit hardware needs this was used quite a bit with some of the builds > > > > > (R/C Aircraft) to help with the 'moments' and fitting the glow motors. > > > > > It's amazing what you can get away with........unless the local > > > > > 'rivet counter' happens to be in the area =D > > > > > > My Tamiya Challenger failed to arrive today and I had my digi > > > > > calipers, steel rule and protractor ready =D =( > > > > > > regards > > > > > > Dave > > > > > > On Jan 19, 7:20 pm, neroc <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > > Just popping my head up from the sweat and toil of working on phil`s > > > > > > Hetzer ;0) (To57 for those who dont know) . > > > > > > A general ballpark answer to your battery question Dave , in the > > > > > > battles I have been involved in where a 12v tank is used , in this > > > > > > case my Marder ( To68 ) .One 18 Amp hour will easly last one hour > > > > > > long > > > > > > battle , possibly longer ,much depends on the way you battle > > > > > > ,personaly I tend to speed to a safe place and then stay there till > > > > > > i > > > > > > see fit to move on. not everyone is the same . > > > > > > I use pairs of 7 or 12 Amp hour batteries at 24 v in my Leopard ( > > > > > > To51 > > > > > > ) but if I build another Tank it will be designed to hold 18amp hour > > > > > > batteries because they can be charged quicker ( High amp chargers > > > > > > dammage smaller AH batteries im told ). a rough price rule of thumb > > > > > > is > > > > > > £10 per 6 Amp hour at 12v Redarding fitting Paintball markers and > > > > > > gravity feed trays into the turrets of 3 feet tanks , I just made me > > > > > > Leopard turret a little taller than it should be when I encounterd > > > > > > this problem , not such a crime and the fella who dishes out the > > > > > > designations is pretty cool about such things . this is a battling > > > > > > hobby so if your creation looks like the chosen subject vehicle then > > > > > > thats good enough for the powers that be, thankfully . > > > > > > > Phil I am at a point of going to an enginering works to have To57`s > > > > > > KTS sprockets made . i`ll get in touch . > > > > > > > Neil R > > > > > > > On Jan 18, 10:34 pm, "[email protected]" > > > > > > > <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > > > Hi Neil > > > > > > > > Thanks for the info. I was aware of the minimum 36" and it may > > > > > > > well > > > > > > > be that I change my proposed scale. It is early days and I have to > > > > > > > also see what hardware I will be using in terms of motors/gearing > > > > > > > which will give me part of the overall sizing to suit. Once I have > > > > > > > my Tamiya I will do an outline in my CAD package to also check out > > > > > > > the turret space with reference to fitting a marker and hopper > > > > > > > that > > > > > > > can depress and elevate. This to will guide the scale selection. > > > > > > > Building it large just seems right for a Challenger =D I will > > > > > > > consider the points presented carefully though! > > > > > > > > I have been all over the R/C Tank Combat site, it's great! Very > > > > > > > informative and entertaining with plenty of ideas to pick n mix. > > > > > > > My > > > > > > > Dad was in the 10th Royal Hussars and I spent many a happy day > > > > > > > during the school holidays running around the hangers and playing > > > > > > > in > > > > > > > and on the armoured cars and being taken out for a run round the > > > > > > > streets of SWindon =D BTW I am 43 =D > > > > > > > > Here's a question with vast parameters- > > > > > > > > Using a Tri-pac steering control with a 12V system of an 'average' > > > > > > > model tank what battery duration can I expect. I appreciate that > > > > > > > there are many variables that will effect the answer but a very > > > > > > > 'generalised' idea will do if possible just so I 'know'. I do > > > > > > > dabble > > > > > > > in electronics and have a very successful 'voice modulator with > > > > > > > sound to light' design that has been picked up by over 60 users > > > > > > > either in kit, ready built of a complete free manual to show how > > > > > > > to > > > > > > > build one including the PCB pattern to etch your own. If your now > > > > > > > wondering - This is for the Dalek builders to do 'the' voice and > > > > > > > drive the dome lights in time with the voice. =D > > > > > > > > Here's to the Kings Own! > > > > > > > > regards > > > > > > > > Dave > > > > > > > > On Jan 18, 9:06 pm, > > ... > > read more » -- You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
