To my knowledge no friction drive tank has been made to work on a suspended tank . I think the track has to be very tight to the drive wheel for reliable enough friction drive .so much so that the suspension system would flat out. more so most experienced builders simply wouldn't recommend a suspension system in a `first` tank. although please do if you wish. friction drive does remove a major construction headache : positive drive has to be very accurate where the drive sprocket engages the track where as friction drive just has to grip.
when choosing motors , if you want to stay with 12v a reasonable choice would be the geared motors found in To68 and To73 they cost just over £30 each +pp from easycads in the UK and are 180W at 12 v . they have an final output of 200rpm. This is a little small and a little slow but have been proved to just about work , if your happy with a slow tank they will be fine. personally Id be looking to double all those figures . something like the M1 motors the Americans use would be my choice. and finally when building your hull , strong is good. Neil R On Jan 20, 7:53 pm, "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote: > Hi All > > Well my Tamiya completely failed to arrive =( So I have been studying > the archives and the build pictures for ideas and to get some sort of > reference on materials and how strength and lightness of build can be > implemented. So my thoughts so far. > > Hull/Chassis = The base panel in 1/2"ply. Front rear and sides in > 1/4". 1/4" Doublers to beef up corners and where the suspension ends > fit in the hull sides. Formers to partition the space and add > torsional rigidity to the hull. The formers will be 'holed' to reduce > weight. > > Top = 4mm ply with 6mm doubler 'ring' for the hole where the turret > will sit. > > Turret = 6mm Base and the rest in 3mm ply unless I bite the bullet and > have ago at a fibreglass molding (possibly) > > Wheels = Wood, laminated for simple detail with the possibility of > doing an ABS detail molding (possibly) I am going for the friction > drive method with the 'belt' type tracks. > > Overall I intend to build the 'whole' without detail. If it gets that > far and works then detail pieces can be added. > > Now I have been trawling for motors ideas but could do with a bit of a > steer as in what are you using, where did you get it, are they readily > available and this is within the UK please. I am looking for 12V > motors and I have found some 12V ones but have no idea as to their > physical size but I do know they aren't geared so this is also > something that needs considering as space for gearing may be needed > and this will have a bearing on the scale of the build and or the > internal layout of the hull structure to suit. > > carry on sanding! > > Dave > > On Jan 19, 8:18 pm, "[email protected]" > > > > <[email protected]> wrote: > > Now that is a smart idea =D Along similar lines I import PCB patterns > > into my circuit design software. Trace over it with the tracks and > > then adjust or 'redesign' the circuit layout to suit my needs/ > > preferences before getting 'my' version printed for toner transfer. I > > have a scanner up in the attic I may dig it out and see what I can do. > > > regards > > > Dave > > > On Jan 19, 8:10 pm, "Morgan, John" <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > I just scan in the sprues and then scale the scans up in CAD. I can then > > > trace them (in CAD) to make a pattern and then adjust it as necessary due > > > to materials, size etc. See my Sherman HVSS sprue attached. The higher > > > the resolution, the easier it is to scale. > > > > Regards, > > > > John > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > From: [email protected] > > > [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of > > > [email protected] > > > Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 3:04 PM > > > To: R/C Tank Combat > > > Subject: [TANKS] Re: newbie alert! > > > > Thanks for all the info Chaps! > > > > I spy 'inexpensive' markers =D An hours running and firing seems > > > adequate. I presume that using PWM speed controllers would give a > > > significant increase, subject to driving style, in duration? I don't > > > think I can afford the PWM method anyway but out of interest...... > > > > With reference to 'tweaking' the scale of portions of the build to suit > > > hardware needs this was used quite a bit with some of the builds (R/C > > > Aircraft) to help with the 'moments' and fitting the glow motors. > > > It's amazing what you can get away with........unless the local 'rivet > > > counter' happens to be in the area =D > > > > My Tamiya Challenger failed to arrive today and I had my digi calipers, > > > steel rule and protractor ready =D =( > > > > regards > > > > Dave > > > > On Jan 19, 7:20 pm, neroc <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > Just popping my head up from the sweat and toil of working on phil`s > > > > Hetzer ;0) (To57 for those who dont know) . > > > > A general ballpark answer to your battery question Dave , in the > > > > battles I have been involved in where a 12v tank is used , in this > > > > case my Marder ( To68 ) .One 18 Amp hour will easly last one hour long > > > > battle , possibly longer ,much depends on the way you battle > > > > ,personaly I tend to speed to a safe place and then stay there till i > > > > see fit to move on. not everyone is the same . > > > > I use pairs of 7 or 12 Amp hour batteries at 24 v in my Leopard ( To51 > > > > ) but if I build another Tank it will be designed to hold 18amp hour > > > > batteries because they can be charged quicker ( High amp chargers > > > > dammage smaller AH batteries im told ). a rough price rule of thumb is > > > > £10 per 6 Amp hour at 12v Redarding fitting Paintball markers and > > > > gravity feed trays into the turrets of 3 feet tanks , I just made me > > > > Leopard turret a little taller than it should be when I encounterd > > > > this problem , not such a crime and the fella who dishes out the > > > > designations is pretty cool about such things . this is a battling > > > > hobby so if your creation looks like the chosen subject vehicle then > > > > thats good enough for the powers that be, thankfully . > > > > > Phil I am at a point of going to an enginering works to have To57`s > > > > KTS sprockets made . i`ll get in touch . > > > > > Neil R > > > > > On Jan 18, 10:34 pm, "[email protected]" > > > > > <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > Hi Neil > > > > > > Thanks for the info. I was aware of the minimum 36" and it may well > > > > > be that I change my proposed scale. It is early days and I have to > > > > > also see what hardware I will be using in terms of motors/gearing > > > > > which will give me part of the overall sizing to suit. Once I have > > > > > my Tamiya I will do an outline in my CAD package to also check out > > > > > the turret space with reference to fitting a marker and hopper that > > > > > can depress and elevate. This to will guide the scale selection. > > > > > Building it large just seems right for a Challenger =D I will > > > > > consider the points presented carefully though! > > > > > > I have been all over the R/C Tank Combat site, it's great! Very > > > > > informative and entertaining with plenty of ideas to pick n mix. My > > > > > Dad was in the 10th Royal Hussars and I spent many a happy day > > > > > during the school holidays running around the hangers and playing in > > > > > and on the armoured cars and being taken out for a run round the > > > > > streets of SWindon =D BTW I am 43 =D > > > > > > Here's a question with vast parameters- > > > > > > Using a Tri-pac steering control with a 12V system of an 'average' > > > > > model tank what battery duration can I expect. I appreciate that > > > > > there are many variables that will effect the answer but a very > > > > > 'generalised' idea will do if possible just so I 'know'. I do dabble > > > > > in electronics and have a very successful 'voice modulator with > > > > > sound to light' design that has been picked up by over 60 users > > > > > either in kit, ready built of a complete free manual to show how to > > > > > build one including the PCB pattern to etch your own. If your now > > > > > wondering - This is for the Dalek builders to do 'the' voice and > > > > > drive the dome lights in time with the voice. =D > > > > > > Here's to the Kings Own! > > > > > > regards > > > > > > Dave > > > > > > On Jan 18, 9:06 pm, neroc <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > > > The UK members are always pleased to welcome new builders and > > > > > > battlers, You will also find excellent help and advice is on hand > > > > > > from experienced builders across the globe. > > > > > > > I dont know if you are aware but you are not required to build in > > > > > > 1/6 th scale, a three foot minimum tank is all that is required as > > > > > > long as the tanks dimensions fit to ( rough ) scale . > > > > > > A 54.5 inch long challenger will be a cumbersome project to > > > > > > handle during all stages of building , maintenance and transport . > > > > > > > If you havent already I would advise you to take a good look > > > > > > around the rc tank combat site , take a look at the UK battles > > > > > > ,Battlers and Assets , the UK team is called the `KOR` ( Kings Own > > > > > > Regiment ) > > > > > > > Wakefeild ! Pete and me are just down the street :0] > > > > > > > Neil R > > > > > > > On Jan 18, 2:07 pm, "[email protected]" > > > > > > > <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > > > Hi Chaps > > > > > > > > Thanks for the welcome =D I live just outside Wakefield on the > > > > > > > south side. My Tamiya was despatched today so hopefully tomorrow > > > > > > > I can start having a look. I use Qcad which is a linux based CAD > > > > > > > package which outputs files as DXF's. I have just used it to > > > > > > > draw round and scale up from a side view of a challenger found > > > > > > > on the web. Using the 1/6th scale and the specs from a militaria > > > > > > > site it looks like the main body will be- > > > > > > > > 1381mm (54.5")long > > > > > > > 580mm (23") wide > > > > > > > 431mm (17")tall inc Turret > > > > > > > Gun Barrel from front of mantle 787mm (31") Main wheels around > > > > > > > 120-138mm (4.75-5 3/8") > > > > > > > > A bit big =D > > > > > > > > I intend mostly Ply structure. Working suspension, Tri-pact > > > > > > > Speed controller, and a modified paintball blowpipe (as seen on > > > > > > > some ones > > > > > > > build) unless I find a dirt cheap semi-auto marker. Motors? > > > > > > > Cheap but durable =D Track system- I reckon the ex-tread mill > > > > > > > would be easiest to succeed with. End objective? Kicking Tiger > > > > > > > Buttock =D All this on a tight budget. > > > > > > > > regards > > > > > > > > Dave > > > > > > > > On Jan 18, 11:09 am, Peter Arundel <[email protected]> > > > > > > > wrote: > > > > > > > > > So, where are you, Dave? If you're close to manchester or > > > > > > > > Stoke, I will be happy to drop in with a tank for you to play > > > > > > > > with. > > > > > > > > > Pete. > > > > > > > > > > Date: Sun, 17 Jan 2010 14:48:35 -0800 > > > > > > > > > Subject: [TANKS] newbie alert! > > > > > > > > > From: [email protected] > > > > > > > > > To: [email protected] > > > > > > > > > > Hi All > > > > > > > > > > I'm based in the UK and stumbled across tank combat whilst > > > > > > > > > researching speed controllers for another project. I have > > > > > > > > > ordered a 1/35- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text -... > > read more »
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