Don: Drilling deep holes requires that the work be exactly aligned parallel to the drill. I am drilling with my Mill/Drill, and the vise is indicated in within . 001" / 6 inches, of parallel. You also gotta use a good (new) drill. Also, it is good practice to use a center drill to start the hole. I did not use a center drill, but was carefull to start the hole slowly. I did'nt use the center drill, because when I go to make 200 parts in a row, the tooling change (switching out the center drill) would be too slow. Don, you just gotta try a few pieces and see how good your drill and techiqune is. Drill a few pieces and see if the holes come out on the bottom end of the work piece, in the same positions as the went in on the top. My deep holes are comming out + or - .003 on the botom of the part -- good enough. All my parts are rough cut, then milled to the correct length (within 3 or 4 thousands of an inch).
I think the final version will be aluminum tread segments with a slot for a rubber pad. The money is about the same - Alumunum vs. PVC. The big consideration, for me, is the time. 1 hour per inch X 150 inches is a lotta time. Mark On Jun 13, 11:28 am, Don Shankin <[email protected]> wrote: > Beautiful! I'm a little confused: Are you still going to use aluminum, or > does the pvc prototype perform well enough that you decided to switch? > Also, I'm assuming that the $0.80/inch was for the aluminum? > > Do you anticipate running into any problems drilling 1/8" holes in the .25" > thick tread segments? That's really what I'm worried about at the moment (I > have a drill press, but it's not the most expensive, and I don't have the > most experience with it) > > Otherwise, this is almost exactly what I wanted to do -- You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
