If I get it right, the controller uses low voltage, 5V or so, for the logic side. This switches the 24V side, but runs at the lower voltage. With the jumper in, an internal regulator takes the 24V feed from the battery and runs it down to 5 for the logic side. Thing is, this much reduction in voltage produces a lot of heat, so the controller runs better if you make your five volts elsewhere.
The aluminum acts as a heat sink, which keeps it cooler. It'll do even better with a proper heat sink--most good electronics stores(not Radio Shack) will have a decent selection, or shop around online. Fans move heat too. This won't increase your max load worth mentioning, just keep it from overheating. If you already have the motor, get a multimeter and measure the amps the motor draws connected straight to the batteries. Check what it draws normally of course, but also find a way to hold the spindle so the motor can't move, even when you apply full power. This is the "stall" current, and your motor controller should have a peak that's higher than this, or a circuit breaker or fuse below the controller's max(make sure running it normally won't blow it). Either way, you'll be able to keep the motor from pulling more than the controller can handle. On Saturday, July 21, 2012 12:02:30 PM UTC-6, Aaron wrote: > > If the Scorpion Mini runs better without the jumper, why is it there at > all? Sorry, I just dont understand these things. > And after the snip, my 24v turret motor will not damage the ESC (provided > I use a chunk of aluminum for cooling)? > > Aaron "sorry for silly questions" Freeman > > -- You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
