Oh I am only going to use a single strand per side and see how it goes. I think that the strength of this track will work fine for my use. I am also considering making a boggie wheel with a bearing sprocket sandwitched between the two wheels, at least on the front and rear boggies, to act as guides. I got the idea in my head, just not sure if it will work well. I would need 4 (maybe 6) idler sprockets, 2-3 on each side. So, idler wheel, then regular wheel, then Idler wheel, then regular wheel, then idler wheel. The reason why I am thinking this is because of the cotter pins on the tracks and dont want them grinding against the insides of the wheels.
On Tuesday, March 12, 2013 12:40:06 PM UTC-6, Jacob wrote: > I am thinking about tack welding the sprockets to the shaft on the > outside, and grinding my own "key" inside the hull for the other sprockets > to seat down. The problem that I have is that keyed sprockets cost 3 times > more money than non-keyed one's. I can afford $40 for 4 sprockets, but not > $120. > > On Monday, March 11, 2013 4:47:51 PM UTC-6, [email protected] wrote: > >> At a minimum I would go with keyed sprockets. Set screws alone will not >> hold the torque of the drive sprockets with tracks this heavy. IMO, >> drilling through the drive shaft to use a bolt would also weaken the shaft >> too much. I use Trantorque keyless bushings (www.fennerdrives.com) on >> my KV-2 drive sprockets to secure them to the shaft. The Trantorque >> keyless bushings push out on the sprocket center bore at the same time as >> cinching down on the drive shaft. They aren't cheap ($30/per) unless you >> can find them on Ebay like I did ($5/per). I like to use 5/8" drive shafts >> since some of us here (not me) have bent 1/2" drive shafts under heavy >> loads. Suspending one or more heavy sprockets with heavy tracks on the end >> of a 1/2" shaft is a recipe for disaster in my mind. Using Trantorque >> bushings also means you need to buy sprockets with a larger center bore. >> Sometimes they are easier to find on Surplus Center than the larger >> sprockets with the smaller bores. I have a metal lathe and have been able >> to reduce the size of the hub portion of the sprockets to reduce some of >> the weight without compromising the strength of the sprocket. >> >> Never had any issues using either even or odd toothed sprockets. There >> will be some track slack so there are no issues I can think of. Are you >> going to use a single strand of chain per side or a double strand? I have >> tried the double strand and I had some issues with derailing, but that was >> with single pitch chain, not double pitch. 2060 chain like that does not >> flex at all side to side like the single 60 pitch stuff I used. That chain >> in the link only has the "ear" on one side (A2 attachment). Most of the >> 2060 chain others have used (including me) have the K-1 attachment (an ear >> on each side of the link). Make sure if you use a double strand of chain >> that the teeth on the drive sprockets are perfectly aligned with each other. >> >> These are all just my observations from using heavy tracks. >> >> Derek >> >> >> >> >> On Mon, Mar 11, 2013 at 3:20 PM, Jacob <[email protected]> wrote: >> >>> I found two 10foot 2060 chains for $50 each, they are US Tsubaki >>> RF2060R-A2-10, w/A2link, Roller Chain, Cottered. Now my question is, do I >>> need an even numbered sprocket, like a 24 tooth, or can I go with an odd >>> number sprocket, like 23. Im looking at 60P 23tooth unfinished sprockets >>> from surplus center for about $8 each (need 4). I will have to drill set >>> screws but that is fine too. thanks >>> >>> >>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/160978807531?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 >>> >>> http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp >>> >>> >>> On Monday, February 11, 2013 3:50:36 PM UTC-7, [email protected] wrote: >>> >>>> Not really. Double pitch means that each link is twice the pitch of a >>>> single 60 pitch. That means the physical link ends up being as long as >>>> (2) >>>> normal 60 pitch links. It is large, heavy duty chain. Way overkill for >>>> our purpose, but it suits it well because the chain is so stiff that it >>>> has >>>> no choice but to stay on the sprockets. It also has very deep links for >>>> the sprockets to mate with. >>>> >>>> Derek >>>> >>>> On Mon, Feb 11, 2013 at 12:22 PM, Jacob <[email protected]> wrote: >>>> >>>>> Double pitch meaning that it grabs every other chain link? It wont >>>>> hurt on a 60 size chain? This chain style is becoming a harder idea to >>>>> chew as I can not find any that are reasonablly priced. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> On Sunday, February 10, 2013 6:05:35 PM UTC-7, [email protected] wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> Holy crap Robert...and I though spending $150 on my carbon steel >>>>>> tracks for the KV-2 was expensive. :) >>>>>> >>>>>> The cheap 2060 chain that Will was selling has dried up. 60P >>>>>> sprockets can be used with 2060 chain. I've done it and that's how the >>>>>> Sturmtiger is set-up. 2060 is just a double pitch 60 pitch chain. >>>>>> >>>>>> Derek >>>>>> >>>>>> On Sun, Feb 10, 2013 at 3:32 PM, Robert Currie < >>>>>> [email protected]> wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> Hi >>>>>>> I don't know if this will help you but the attachment chain I >>>>>>> purchased in 2003 was $515.20 here in Canada another reason it's taking >>>>>>> me >>>>>>> a little longer to get my grizzly up and running >>>>>>> So that was four 7' long lengths of 2060 attachment chain with tab >>>>>>> on one side ,and four master links >>>>>>> >>>>>>> [email protected] >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> -- -- You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "R/C Tank Combat" group. 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