Right now, its closer to a 1/4 scale t34 tank at 4ft (48inches)long, instead of the 38 1/4" of the T005 tying tank. I may cut it down latter to closer to 1/5 scale depending on how it looks. I want the extra strength as I am expecting this thing to be over 300lbs. I am planning on eventually putting on either 350watt or 450watt motors on this tank. I am really overbuilding it for strength. Right now its 0.75 inch floor and 0.5inch sides, but this is just to prototype it. My friend has a metal shop and eventually, I will rebuild it with a steel body. I will try building it without those extra sprockets and just keep with the drive and return sprockets. The only problem I have come across is the fact that those scooter motors only come with 25 pitch gears. I would had perfered 35 pitch, but I cant find replacement sprockets at that size. I am worried that the 25 pitch chain wont be strong enough, but time will tell. My existing wheelchair motors can be resprocketed to any 5/8 sprocket, but I was wanting more speed and power of a scooter motor.
On Tuesday, March 12, 2013 1:40:02 PM UTC-6, [email protected] wrote: > You won't need those sprockets. In fact they may cause binding or > dragging problems. As the track goes around not all the bogie wheels will > move at the same pace especially if a rock or stick stalls one of them. > Having those sprockets there may cause the track to stutter over them or > get caught. Everything would need to be perfectly aligned all the time > with no issues. I makes sense not to do it in my head. The track will > slack and tighten depending on the terrain and the action of the > suspension. The pins will grind some of the wheels off, but it's not a big > deal IMO. You realize that a 24T 60P sprocket is 6" across right? And > very heavy. What tank are you building again? > > Derek > > On Tue, Mar 12, 2013 at 1:47 PM, Jacob <[email protected]<javascript:> > > wrote: > >> Oh I am only going to use a single strand per side and see how it goes. I >> think that the strength of this track will work fine for my use. I am also >> considering making a boggie wheel with a bearing sprocket sandwitched >> between the two wheels, at least on the front and rear boggies, to act as >> guides. I got the idea in my head, just not sure if it will work well. I >> would need 4 (maybe 6) idler sprockets, 2-3 on each side. So, idler wheel, >> then regular wheel, then Idler wheel, then regular wheel, then idler wheel. >> The reason why I am thinking this is because of the cotter pins on the >> tracks and dont want them grinding against the insides of the wheels. >> >> On Tuesday, March 12, 2013 12:40:06 PM UTC-6, Jacob wrote: >> >>> I am thinking about tack welding the sprockets to the shaft on the >>> outside, and grinding my own "key" inside the hull for the other sprockets >>> to seat down. The problem that I have is that keyed sprockets cost 3 times >>> more money than non-keyed one's. I can afford $40 for 4 sprockets, but not >>> $120. >>> >>> On Monday, March 11, 2013 4:47:51 PM UTC-6, [email protected] wrote: >>> >>>> At a minimum I would go with keyed sprockets. Set screws alone will >>>> not hold the torque of the drive sprockets with tracks this heavy. IMO, >>>> drilling through the drive shaft to use a bolt would also weaken the shaft >>>> too much. I use Trantorque keyless bushings (www.fennerdrives.com) on >>>> my KV-2 drive sprockets to secure them to the shaft. The Trantorque >>>> keyless bushings push out on the sprocket center bore at the same time as >>>> cinching down on the drive shaft. They aren't cheap ($30/per) unless you >>>> can find them on Ebay like I did ($5/per). I like to use 5/8" drive >>>> shafts >>>> since some of us here (not me) have bent 1/2" drive shafts under heavy >>>> loads. Suspending one or more heavy sprockets with heavy tracks on the >>>> end >>>> of a 1/2" shaft is a recipe for disaster in my mind. Using Trantorque >>>> bushings also means you need to buy sprockets with a larger center bore. >>>> Sometimes they are easier to find on Surplus Center than the larger >>>> sprockets with the smaller bores. I have a metal lathe and have been able >>>> to reduce the size of the hub portion of the sprockets to reduce some of >>>> the weight without compromising the strength of the sprocket. >>>> >>>> Never had any issues using either even or odd toothed sprockets. There >>>> will be some track slack so there are no issues I can think of. Are you >>>> going to use a single strand of chain per side or a double strand? I have >>>> tried the double strand and I had some issues with derailing, but that was >>>> with single pitch chain, not double pitch. 2060 chain like that does not >>>> flex at all side to side like the single 60 pitch stuff I used. That >>>> chain >>>> in the link only has the "ear" on one side (A2 attachment). Most of the >>>> 2060 chain others have used (including me) have the K-1 attachment (an ear >>>> on each side of the link). Make sure if you use a double strand of chain >>>> that the teeth on the drive sprockets are perfectly aligned with each >>>> other. >>>> >>>> These are all just my observations from using heavy tracks. >>>> >>>> Derek >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> On Mon, Mar 11, 2013 at 3:20 PM, Jacob <[email protected]> wrote: >>>> >>>>> I found two 10foot 2060 chains for $50 each, they are US Tsubaki >>>>> RF2060R-A2-10, w/A2link, Roller Chain, Cottered. Now my question is, do I >>>>> need an even numbered sprocket, like a 24 tooth, or can I go with an odd >>>>> number sprocket, like 23. Im looking at 60P 23tooth unfinished sprockets >>>>> from surplus center for about $8 each (need 4). I will have to drill set >>>>> screws but that is fine too. thanks >>>>> >>>>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/**160978807531?ssPageName=STRK:** >>>>> MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.**l2649<http://www.ebay.com/itm/160978807531?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649> >>>>> >>>>> http://www.surpluscenter.com/**item.asp<http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> On Monday, February 11, 2013 3:50:36 PM UTC-7, [email protected] wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> Not really. Double pitch means that each link is twice the pitch of >>>>>> a single 60 pitch. That means the physical link ends up being as long >>>>>> as >>>>>> (2) normal 60 pitch links. It is large, heavy duty chain. Way overkill >>>>>> for our purpose, but it suits it well because the chain is so stiff that >>>>>> it >>>>>> has no choice but to stay on the sprockets. It also has very deep links >>>>>> for the sprockets to mate with. >>>>>> >>>>>> Derek >>>>>> >>>>>> On Mon, Feb 11, 2013 at 12:22 PM, Jacob <[email protected]>wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> Double pitch meaning that it grabs every other chain link? It wont >>>>>>> hurt on a 60 size chain? This chain style is becoming a harder idea to >>>>>>> chew as I can not find any that are reasonablly priced. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> On Sunday, February 10, 2013 6:05:35 PM UTC-7, [email protected]: >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Holy crap Robert...and I though spending $150 on my carbon steel >>>>>>>> tracks for the KV-2 was expensive. :) >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> The cheap 2060 chain that Will was selling has dried up. 60P >>>>>>>> sprockets can be used with 2060 chain. I've done it and that's how >>>>>>>> the >>>>>>>> Sturmtiger is set-up. 2060 is just a double pitch 60 pitch chain. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Derek >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> On Sun, Feb 10, 2013 at 3:32 PM, Robert Currie < >>>>>>>> [email protected]> wrote: >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> Hi >>>>>>>>> I don't know if this will help you but the attachment chain I >>>>>>>>> purchased in 2003 was $515.20 here in Canada another reason it's >>>>>>>>> taking me >>>>>>>>> a little longer to get my grizzly up and running >>>>>>>>> So that was four 7' long lengths of 2060 attachment chain with tab >>>>>>>>> on one side ,and four master links >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> [email protected] >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> -- >> -- >> You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. >> To post a message, send email to [email protected] <javascript:> >> To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected]<javascript:> >> Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat >> >> --- >> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups >> "R/C Tank Combat" group. >> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an >> email to [email protected] <javascript:>. >> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. >> >> >> > > -- -- You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. 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