You won't need those sprockets. In fact they may cause binding or dragging problems. As the track goes around not all the bogie wheels will move at the same pace especially if a rock or stick stalls one of them. Having those sprockets there may cause the track to stutter over them or get caught. Everything would need to be perfectly aligned all the time with no issues. I makes sense not to do it in my head. The track will slack and tighten depending on the terrain and the action of the suspension. The pins will grind some of the wheels off, but it's not a big deal IMO. You realize that a 24T 60P sprocket is 6" across right? And very heavy. What tank are you building again?
Derek On Tue, Mar 12, 2013 at 1:47 PM, Jacob <[email protected]> wrote: > Oh I am only going to use a single strand per side and see how it goes. I > think that the strength of this track will work fine for my use. I am also > considering making a boggie wheel with a bearing sprocket sandwitched > between the two wheels, at least on the front and rear boggies, to act as > guides. I got the idea in my head, just not sure if it will work well. I > would need 4 (maybe 6) idler sprockets, 2-3 on each side. So, idler wheel, > then regular wheel, then Idler wheel, then regular wheel, then idler wheel. > The reason why I am thinking this is because of the cotter pins on the > tracks and dont want them grinding against the insides of the wheels. > > On Tuesday, March 12, 2013 12:40:06 PM UTC-6, Jacob wrote: > >> I am thinking about tack welding the sprockets to the shaft on the >> outside, and grinding my own "key" inside the hull for the other sprockets >> to seat down. The problem that I have is that keyed sprockets cost 3 times >> more money than non-keyed one's. I can afford $40 for 4 sprockets, but not >> $120. >> >> On Monday, March 11, 2013 4:47:51 PM UTC-6, [email protected] wrote: >> >>> At a minimum I would go with keyed sprockets. Set screws alone will not >>> hold the torque of the drive sprockets with tracks this heavy. IMO, >>> drilling through the drive shaft to use a bolt would also weaken the shaft >>> too much. I use Trantorque keyless bushings (www.fennerdrives.com) on >>> my KV-2 drive sprockets to secure them to the shaft. The Trantorque >>> keyless bushings push out on the sprocket center bore at the same time as >>> cinching down on the drive shaft. They aren't cheap ($30/per) unless you >>> can find them on Ebay like I did ($5/per). I like to use 5/8" drive shafts >>> since some of us here (not me) have bent 1/2" drive shafts under heavy >>> loads. Suspending one or more heavy sprockets with heavy tracks on the end >>> of a 1/2" shaft is a recipe for disaster in my mind. Using Trantorque >>> bushings also means you need to buy sprockets with a larger center bore. >>> Sometimes they are easier to find on Surplus Center than the larger >>> sprockets with the smaller bores. I have a metal lathe and have been able >>> to reduce the size of the hub portion of the sprockets to reduce some of >>> the weight without compromising the strength of the sprocket. >>> >>> Never had any issues using either even or odd toothed sprockets. There >>> will be some track slack so there are no issues I can think of. Are you >>> going to use a single strand of chain per side or a double strand? I have >>> tried the double strand and I had some issues with derailing, but that was >>> with single pitch chain, not double pitch. 2060 chain like that does not >>> flex at all side to side like the single 60 pitch stuff I used. That chain >>> in the link only has the "ear" on one side (A2 attachment). Most of the >>> 2060 chain others have used (including me) have the K-1 attachment (an ear >>> on each side of the link). Make sure if you use a double strand of chain >>> that the teeth on the drive sprockets are perfectly aligned with each other. >>> >>> These are all just my observations from using heavy tracks. >>> >>> Derek >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> On Mon, Mar 11, 2013 at 3:20 PM, Jacob <[email protected]> wrote: >>> >>>> I found two 10foot 2060 chains for $50 each, they are US Tsubaki >>>> RF2060R-A2-10, w/A2link, Roller Chain, Cottered. Now my question is, do I >>>> need an even numbered sprocket, like a 24 tooth, or can I go with an odd >>>> number sprocket, like 23. Im looking at 60P 23tooth unfinished sprockets >>>> from surplus center for about $8 each (need 4). I will have to drill set >>>> screws but that is fine too. thanks >>>> >>>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/**160978807531?ssPageName=STRK:** >>>> MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.**l2649<http://www.ebay.com/itm/160978807531?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649> >>>> >>>> http://www.surpluscenter.com/**item.asp<http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp> >>>> >>>> >>>> On Monday, February 11, 2013 3:50:36 PM UTC-7, [email protected] wrote: >>>> >>>>> Not really. Double pitch means that each link is twice the pitch of a >>>>> single 60 pitch. That means the physical link ends up being as long as >>>>> (2) >>>>> normal 60 pitch links. It is large, heavy duty chain. Way overkill for >>>>> our purpose, but it suits it well because the chain is so stiff that it >>>>> has >>>>> no choice but to stay on the sprockets. It also has very deep links for >>>>> the sprockets to mate with. >>>>> >>>>> Derek >>>>> >>>>> On Mon, Feb 11, 2013 at 12:22 PM, Jacob <[email protected]>wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> Double pitch meaning that it grabs every other chain link? It wont >>>>>> hurt on a 60 size chain? This chain style is becoming a harder idea to >>>>>> chew as I can not find any that are reasonablly priced. >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> On Sunday, February 10, 2013 6:05:35 PM UTC-7, [email protected]: >>>>>> >>>>>>> Holy crap Robert...and I though spending $150 on my carbon steel >>>>>>> tracks for the KV-2 was expensive. :) >>>>>>> >>>>>>> The cheap 2060 chain that Will was selling has dried up. 60P >>>>>>> sprockets can be used with 2060 chain. I've done it and that's how the >>>>>>> Sturmtiger is set-up. 2060 is just a double pitch 60 pitch chain. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Derek >>>>>>> >>>>>>> On Sun, Feb 10, 2013 at 3:32 PM, Robert Currie < >>>>>>> [email protected]> wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Hi >>>>>>>> I don't know if this will help you but the attachment chain I >>>>>>>> purchased in 2003 was $515.20 here in Canada another reason it's >>>>>>>> taking me >>>>>>>> a little longer to get my grizzly up and running >>>>>>>> So that was four 7' long lengths of 2060 attachment chain with tab >>>>>>>> on one side ,and four master links >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> [email protected] >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> -- > -- > You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. > To post a message, send email to [email protected] > To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] > Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat > > --- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "R/C Tank Combat" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to [email protected]. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. > > > -- -- You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. 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