During the 80's we installed several SHW jobs on slate, one with 8 - 4x10
collectors. It continues to be leak free.
The key thing to remember is that it is NOT the slate that keeps the water
out, it is the tar paper underneath the slate. Here in Va. the paper is good
for about 100 years before it dries out and deteriorates to the point where
it can break up from wind storms. Then any wind driven rain can lead to
leaks.
Of course , there are differing grades of tar paper-----------
For mounts to be water tight, the typical technique is to remove a slate
with a slaters tool to remove the 2 nails holding the slate. Then slide a
sheet of copper under
the tar paper shingle fashion--also a good time to check the tar paper to
see what condition it is in-- so that there is a durable material to seal
to.Then L feet can be installed with black silicone in the lag hole and
under the foot, oozing out all around, especially on the uphill side, and
smooth over to seal the top edge. Snug the lag but do not tighten
excessively ! We want to maintain a silicone pad.
For those that need the security of a boot, it can be installed in
conjunction with the copper flashing. A decorative piece of slate can even
be installed by cutting a strip or 2 of copper strap that is fastened under
the boot, or inserted into or under the main flashing, nailed with a copper
nail and some silicone, extending below the bottom of the slate, and then
bent up and over the bottom of the slate, making a durable hook. Remember,
all the slate does is look good and protect the tar paper from UV rays.
Anytime a plumbing boot is installed, it is best if its inserted into or
under the roofing material, not just caulked on top of the roofing.
I wouldn't use the' hole saw thru the slate' ------------
Ken Schaal
CommonWealth Solar ----slate roof territory
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mick Abraham" <[email protected]>
To: "RE-wrenches" <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, July 18, 2010 4:35 PM
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Slate roof strategies
Hi, Drake~ Consider this item:
http://www.sunslates.net/
These are sized to match Eternit brand slates. I know very little else
about this...but if you have a different size of slates... thinking...
somebody else is out there with other sizes.
OpenEnergy is a brand you might do well to search out, and friend
Brian on this list with Eagle Roofing may have other suggestions.
The "holesaw through the slate" idea sounds to me like it would
ultimately rely on a caulked seal between the Oatey flashing and the
slate upon which it rests. That sounds risky for what is probably a
high end roof with a high end structure beneath.
Jolliness,
Mick Abraham, Proprietor
www.abrahamsolar.com
Voice: 970-731-4675
On Sun, Jul 18, 2010 at 2:19 PM, Drake Chamberlin
<[email protected]> wrote:
Hi Wrenches,
There was a strategy mentioned for slate roofs recently. Removing the
slate
under the array area and replacing with decking and shingles would
certainly
work. That might be the best solution.
There are two potential problems however.
It would cost a fair amount to replace that portion of the roof
My slate roof guy estimates that the existing rock is good for another
hundred years with a little maintenance. The slate is an incredible
roofing
material, and it would be a shame to scrap it.
One strategy that might work would be to take a diamond hole saw and cut
circles of slate out, over the rafters, to screw standoffs directly to the
rafters. Then an Oatey flashing could go over the standoff.
Any feedback as to the viability of this method would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Drake Chamberlin
Athens Electric
OH License 44810
CO License 3773
NABCEP TM Certified PV Installer
Office - 740-448-7328
Mobile - 740-856-9648
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