What about using the UNIRAC rapidfoot?

Thank you,

Maverick


Maverick Brown
BSEET, NABCEP Certified Solar PV Installer ®
President & CEO
Maverick Solar Enterprises, Inc.
Office:     512-919-4493
Cell:        512-460-9825

Sent from an iPhone. 

On Jul 19, 2010, at 8:59 AM, <[email protected]> wrote:

> For residential install with the spray foam insulation
> 
> Underside of deck has 12"+ of foam.....no way to accurately locate rafter 
> there.....hammer and ear also out of the question...........don't think any 
> of the stud finders will work....been told that peeling back shingles to 
> locate rafter is only accurate way.......would like to avoid that if 
> possible..........any suggestions?
> 
> Holt E. Kelly
> Holtek Fireplace & Solar Products
> 500 Jewell Dr.
> Waco TX. 76712
> 254-751-9111
> www.holteksolar.com
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ken Schaal" <[email protected]>
> To: "RE-wrenches" <[email protected]>
> Sent: Sunday, July 18, 2010 8:25 PM
> Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Slate roof strategies
> 
> 
>> During the 80's we installed several SHW jobs on slate, one with 8 - 4x10 
>> collectors. It continues to be leak free.
>> The key thing to remember is that it is NOT the slate that keeps the water 
>> out, it is the tar paper underneath the slate. Here in Va. the paper is good 
>> for about 100 years before it dries out and deteriorates to the point where 
>> it can break up from wind storms. Then any wind driven rain can lead to 
>> leaks.
>> Of course , there are differing grades of tar paper-----------
>> 
>> For mounts to be water tight, the typical technique is to remove a slate 
>> with a slaters tool to remove the 2 nails holding the slate. Then slide a 
>> sheet of copper under
>> the tar paper shingle fashion--also a good time to check the tar paper to 
>> see what condition it is in-- so that there is a durable material to seal 
>> to.Then L feet can be installed with black silicone in the lag hole and 
>> under the foot, oozing out all around, especially on the uphill side, and 
>> smooth over to seal the top edge. Snug the lag but do not tighten 
>> excessively ! We want to maintain a silicone pad.
>> For those that need the security of a boot, it can be installed in 
>> conjunction with the copper flashing. A decorative piece of slate can even 
>> be installed by cutting a strip or 2 of copper strap that is fastened under 
>> the boot, or inserted into or under the main flashing, nailed with a copper 
>> nail and some silicone, extending below the bottom of the slate, and then 
>> bent up and over the bottom of the slate, making a durable hook. Remember, 
>> all the slate does is look good and protect the tar paper from UV rays.
>> 
>> Anytime a plumbing boot is installed, it is best if its inserted into or 
>> under the roofing material, not just caulked on top of the roofing.
>> 
>> I wouldn't use the' hole saw thru the slate'  ------------
>> 
>> Ken Schaal
>> CommonWealth Solar   ----slate roof territory
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mick Abraham" <[email protected]>
>> To: "RE-wrenches" <[email protected]>
>> Sent: Sunday, July 18, 2010 4:35 PM
>> Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Slate roof strategies
>> 
>> 
>> Hi, Drake~ Consider this item:
>> 
>> http://www.sunslates.net/
>> 
>> These are sized to match Eternit brand slates. I know very little else
>> about this...but if you have a different size of slates... thinking...
>> somebody else is out there with other sizes.
>> 
>> OpenEnergy is a brand you might do well to search out, and friend
>> Brian on this list with Eagle Roofing may have other suggestions.
>> 
>> The "holesaw through the slate" idea sounds to me like it would
>> ultimately rely on a caulked seal between the Oatey flashing and the
>> slate upon which it rests. That sounds risky for what is probably a
>> high end roof with a high end structure beneath.
>> 
>> Jolliness,
>> 
>> Mick Abraham, Proprietor
>> www.abrahamsolar.com
>> 
>> Voice: 970-731-4675
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Sun, Jul 18, 2010 at 2:19 PM, Drake Chamberlin
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> Hi Wrenches,
>>> 
>>> There was a strategy mentioned for slate roofs recently. Removing the slate
>>> under the array area and replacing with decking and shingles would certainly
>>> work. That might be the best solution.
>>> 
>>> There are two potential problems however.
>>> 
>>> It would cost a fair amount to replace that portion of the roof
>>> My slate roof guy estimates that the existing rock is good for another
>>> hundred years with a little maintenance. The slate is an incredible roofing
>>> material, and it would be a shame to scrap it.
>>> 
>>> One strategy that might work would be to take a diamond hole saw and cut
>>> circles of slate out, over the rafters, to screw standoffs directly to the
>>> rafters. Then an Oatey flashing could go over the standoff.
>>> 
>>> Any feedback as to the viability of this method would be appreciated.
>>> 
>>> Thanks,
>>> 
>>> Drake Chamberlin
>>> Athens Electric
>>> OH License 44810
>>> CO License 3773
>>> NABCEP TM Certified PV Installer
>>> Office - 740-448-7328
>>> Mobile - 740-856-9648
>>> 
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