Oh, forgot a minor detail. In step 7 where you flare the shield out,
compact the dielectric around the outer perimeter so that it doesn't get
caught between the fingers and the body of the connector when you put the
two halves of the connector together. Don't disturb any more of the
dielectric than necessary (i.e. don't go nuts packing all of the dielectric
down, just go around the gap between the shield and the outer edge of the
end of the dielectric).
--- Jeff
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email protected]
> [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Jeff DePolo
> Sent: Tuesday, March 17, 2009 9:28 AM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Andrews hard line help
>
>
> Well, an L45W is nice and easy. It's one of the old-style
> connectors that
> has a thread-in center pin (the best kind, in my opinion). Simple
> instructions follow - let me know if you want a scan of the actual
> instruction sheet. I'd suggest experimenting once on a scrap
> piece of cable
> until you get the hang of it, but don't use the o-rings or
> the center pin
> when experimenting, just use the two halves of the connector
> - you don't
> want to risk cutting or damaging the o-rings or pin during
> the experiment.
>
> 1. Straighten out the end of the cable (make it very
> straight), then cut
> off about three inches of jacket. Make the jacket cut at the
> center of one
> of the "valleys" in the corrugation.
>
> 2. Install the smaller-diameter O-ring on the shield so that it's one
> corrugation valley away from the end of the jacket. Coat it
> with silicone
> grease. Be careful not to get the o-ring snagged on the sharp
> end of the
> corrugation when installing it; they tear easily if they get nicked.
>
> 3. Slide the rear half of the connector onto the end of the
> cable, over the
> O-ring. It will snap/click as it goes over the corrugations.
> Push it in as
> far as you can, stopping at the point where the ridges on the
> "fingers" on
> the end are snapped into one of the "valleys" in the corrugation.
>
> 4. Cut the cable off flush with the end of the connector
> fingers using a
> very fine-toothed hacksaw, being careful not to either cut
> into the fingers,
> nor cutting any further away from the fingers than necessary.
> The goal is
> to make the cut right at the "peak" of the corrugation at the
> tip of the
> fingers.
>
> 5. Orient the end of the cable vertically so that it's
> pointing toward the
> ground. Tap on it to shake all of the metal filings out. Brush the
> dielectric to get all of the filings off it - make sure it's
> perfectly clean
> before going any further.
>
> 6. Put the large O-ring below the threads on the back half of
> the connector
> (i.e. just past the threads, closer to the back end of the
> connector where
> the flat spots are for a wrench). Coat it lightly with
> silicone grease.
>
> 7. Slightly (emphasis on slightly) flare out the shield at
> the end of the
> cable. Use something round about 1/4" in diameter (I use the
> tip of a pair
> of needle-nose pliers held closed - the kind of needle-nose
> that have a
> rounded taper, not flat), angled at about 45 degrees, running
> it in a circle
> around the inside of the shield. You'll have to apply a bit
> of pressure to
> get the shield to flare out, but don't over-do it. If you don't flare
> enough, the shield won't get pinched as it should between the
> fingers on the
> back half of the connector and the ring "lip" on the inside
> of the body of
> the connector. If you flare too much, you won't be able to
> get the body of
> the connector over the end of the cable. This flaring step is probably
> where you will want to practice a bit, screwing the body of
> the connector
> only hand-tight (no wrenches), and then removing it so you
> can look at the
> flare to make sure you see good clean marks from the "lip"
> biting into the
> shield a bit.
>
> 8. Thread the center pin into the center conductor using the
> little steel
> rod that comes with the connector to provide torque. Make
> sure it threads
> in nice and straight. It should "squeak" a little as you get
> it all the way
> in; don't over-tighten or it will strip out.
>
> 9. Slide the body of the connector onto the cable. Do it very
> gently, look
> into the end of the connector to make sure the center pin is
> lined up nice
> and straight as you ease it on otherwise you can damage/bend
> it. Keep the
> back half of the connector stationary - you only want to turn
> the body of
> the connector. Tighten with wrenches, and again, don't over-tighten.
> You'll need big wrenches to do it, and big wrenches tend to
> also be long
> wrenches which give you a lot of torque...
>
> Hope that helped. Kind of weird doing it from memory. Once
> you've done a
> few you won't even have to think about it...
>
> --- Jeff WN3A
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [email protected]
> <mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com>
> > [mailto:[email protected]
> <mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of
> Rick Szajkowski
> > Sent: Tuesday, March 17, 2009 12:23 AM
> > To: [email protected]
> <mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Andrews hard line help
> >
> > one of the connectors is a Andrews L45W thats a N Mail
> > connector .. for the 7/8 Andrews hard line .. ( I cant get to
> > the roll of 7/8 right now)
> >
> > I hope to get to the other connectors tomarrow as I need a
> > female for the sinclare 4 bay ..
> >
> > Thanks to all for the help .. Getting ready to do Tower work
> > :) have to do it before the warm weather hits .. hihi
> >
> >
> > On Mon, Mar 16, 2009 at 7:34 PM, Jeff DePolo
> > <[email protected] <mailto:jd0%40broadsci.com>
> <mailto:[email protected] <mailto:jd0%40broadsci.com> > > wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Rick
> > >
> > > Go to the files section and there is a file there "Andrew
> > > bulletin 37383C.pdf" that is the instruction sheet
> > for connectors.
> > >
> > > Craig
> >
> >
> > That sheet is for the early L4 series solder-type
> > connectors; it may or may
> > not be applicable to the original post since we don't
> > know which connectors
> > he has. It's definately not applicable for the 7/8th's.
> > Andrew has come
> > out with serveral different series of connectors since
> > the days of the
> > original L series (without a suffix). The L series
> > connectors came out when
> > LDF first came out, replacing the HSJ series. For
> > exmaple, RingFlare,
> > OnePiece, Posi-Stop, and EZfit are some of the newer
> > series that come to
> > mind.
> >
> > It would be best if the original poster listed which
> > connectors he has on
> > hand, and what kind of cable he has (for example,
> > LDF5-50A isn't the same as
> > LDF5-50B, and the connectors aren't interchangable either).
> >
> > --- Jeff WN3A
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> > Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database: 270.11.3/1970 - Release
> > Date: 03/17/09 07:23:00
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database: 270.11.3/1970 - Release
> Date: 03/17/09 07:23:00
>
>
>
