Has anyone tried overlaying styrene car sides with riveted brass strips?
How hard would it be to cut (and imprint the rivets on) a strip that is thin
enough (width-wise and thickness-wise) to accurately represent an overlap?


John Degnan
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
John's World on the Web
http://www.trainweb.org/seaboard/welcome.htm
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "meldridge2000" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: June 02, 2005 10:09 AM
Subject: [S-Scale Modeling] Re: Scratch-Built Box Car Sides


> The limiting factor is the overlapping joint. I think the only way
> you
> can do this well is with brass. If you use thin enough styrene,
> you'll
> have a terrible time embossing rivets without punching through. Even
> with the brass, the sheet will be very thin, so you need to fill in
> the back of the rivets if you emboss them, otherwise they'll get
> flattened as you handle the car. I've been considering making a car
> side with the thin brass, then molding and casting the side in
> polyurethane, but I don't care about boxcar interiors so it doesn't
> matter how thick the wall is. Another option on my "to try" list is
> that you can buy rivets from Tichy. These are like NBW castings. I'm
> not sure I could drill the required holes accurately enough, but
> maybe
> with an XY table or even the Riveter table in the drill press it
> would
> work.
>
> -Michael Eldridge
> -San Jose, CA
>
>
> --- In [email protected], "John Degnan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > ... I'm looking for input on how to make steel boxcar sides from
> scratch.  What type of material is best (Sheet styrene?  Other?), and
> what methods work best for simulating sheet-metal overlaps (joints),
> rivets and other details?  I'd like the thickness of these sides to
> allow for interior detail, yet remain at least close to the actual
> thickness of the walls of the prototype... in short, as prototypical
> as possible.  > Thanks.
> >
>
>
>
>
>
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