If the points move .14 inches, the crank (from the target shaft to the point it's connected to the switch throw) would need to be .1 inches. Because the crank is so short, you have to allow for .03 inches of movement perpendicular to the throw bar motion, so you either would have to cut a slot or a too large hole in the throw bar.
I tried this method with an even shorter throw, and couldn't get it to work. It might work at .140 throw. To achieve my .1 inch throw and operate the switch stand target, I use switch motors, in a mounting bracket that allows them to turn 90 degrees. Otherwise, the switch motor is installed normally, under the switch points and connected with a wire up through the benchwork. The switch stand pole is a wire that goes through the benchwork. Attached to the wire under the benchwork is a lever parallel to the switch motor arm, and attached with a link. This works fine, but I think I can do it more simply. My next try is going to be to mount the switch motor directly under the target. The wire which is the switch stand pole will go through the benchwork and be bent just like you would the switch actuating wire. The switch actuating wire doesn't need to travel 90 degrees below the table, so I believe I can bend it and run it over to the motor, and still get plenty of motion to throw the points. If this makes it to the top of the to do list (it's only second from the top right now) I'll let you know if this works. -Michael Eldridge --- In [email protected], "Richard Karnes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Tom et al -- > > The PBL stands have a small lever that's meant to be engaged by a link from the switch throwbar in order to turn the target. > > In general, you can make any target rotate (provided the switchstand actually has a rotating target!) by 90 degrees by lengthening or shortening the distance between the pivot point and the actuation point -- in other words, lengthening or shortening the effective lever arm that's attached to the target's pivot rod. > > For the specific example you give, drilling another hole in the lever that's closer to the pivot center will do the trick. Using the dimensions you cite, a new hole that's 1/4 (.140/.5625) of the distance from the pivot to the factory-drilled actuator hole will do the job. You can clip off the excess lever arm material. > > Dick Karnes > ================================= Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
