This entire thread has been very interesting and educational, kudos
to all who have written. I have never considered that steel would be
an option in either HO or S. I just always assumed that nickel silver
rail was the only thing available (I don't consider brass rail a
viable alternative). You know what they say, assumption is the mother
of all screw-ups.
1. Who sells steel rail, and is it available in the common sizes?
2. How does the cost of steel rail compare to nickel silver?
3. Are there any corrosion issues where steel and nickel silver touch?
4. Are there any soldering issues when using steel rail?
5. Are stainless steel drivers commercially available?
6. Are stainless steel wheels commercially available for retrofitting
diesel engines?
7. Has anyone tried stainless steel rail and drivers working
together, and if so, can the engine pull tree stumps?
Best regards,
Stan Maddox
www.burlingtongulf.com
On Oct 2, 2008, at 1:43 PM, Ed Kozlowsky wrote:
> Steel rail is VERY popular in O scale. Even with clipper oil the
> adhesion is outstanding.
>
> Ed Kozlowsky
> Sanford, Maine
>
> --- On Thu, 10/2/08, ed_loizeaux <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> From: ed_loizeaux <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: {S-Scale List} Stainless Steel Drivers/Wheels
> To: [email protected]
> Date: Thursday, October 2, 2008, 1:39 PM
>
> > there's no need to worry about rust with Stainless Steel.
> > Ed Kozlowsky
>
> Logic would lead one to believe rust will be a problem when using
> steel. As Dr. Spock would say: "That DOES compute!" However,
> anecdotal reports from those using steel for both rails and wheels is
> counterintuitive.
>
> One example is a large -- no HUGE -- HO layout in a former bowling
> alley in Pasadena, CA which used steel rail throughout. No problems
> with rust were noted. Proof of better adhesion was on one passing
> siding going up a grade. The passing siding was nickel-silver while
> the mainline was steel. The same train went up the grade on the
> mainline, circled the layout, and then attempted to go up the same
> grade on the passing siding. Wheels slipped and the train stalled.
> Same train, same grade, same loco, same everything except for the
> rail's material.
>
> Locally, the HO and O folks using steel rail report no rust problems
> at all. Of course, we are speaking of dry environments out here
> because in California there are few basements. So water seepage is
> not an issue and the climate is near desertlike in most areas. Snow
> is rare in most all of this state. High humidity is non-existent.
> Thank goodness for the water canals and pipelines that bring the
> precious fluid into our homes. Rust does not seem to be a problem
> for anyone out here.
>
> Since nobody is a metallurgist, nobody can 'splain exactly why rust
> is not an issue. Best guess seems to be that constant use and
> perhaps a thin coating of track cleaning fluid (sometimes Wahl
> Clipper oil) keeps the rust from developing on operating layouts.
> Long term storage, as mentioned, is another situation entirely.
> However, the primary purveyor of steel rail has lots of the stuff
> (rail, not rust) in his inventory for years on end and has reported
> no problems with rust. Go figure.....? ?
>
> One thing is for sure, the folks that actually use steel rail and/or
> steel wheels love the stuff. Those who have never tried it have the
> disadvantage of not being familiar with it. Those who like to look
> at models on a shelf will not care one way or another. Those who run
> short trains (under 25 cars) only occasionally on a flat (no grades)
> layout will not see much of a difference and will wonder what all the
> fuss is about. Those who have grades, run long trains, run for hours
> on end, etc., will speak to their satisfaction with steel.
>
> Just adding some fuel to the fire.
>
> Cheers...... Fireman Ed L.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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